Cosmetics Formulation Development

hi, I want to make night serum and day serum. It is important that the day serum is not too heavy, and it can be used with light makeup. The formulation is for normal skin with fine wrinkles with skin whitening . Right now feel good with the Ordinary's Buffet but not helping with reducing fine wrinkles. Please also advise if any ingredients in these % may clog up pores. Night serum: Water: 52% Pal-GHK , Pal-GQPR Matrixyl 3000 : 3% Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite : 3% DMAE (SkinTight) Liquid: 5% Glycerin 99.5%: 5% Safe B3 : (*1) Wrinkle-Fill : 2% (*1) Adenosine Liposome : 3% Ectoin : 2 % Ume Extract : 3% (*2) Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) : 3% Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) : 3% Satin Cream Maker : 2% Skin mimic : 1% Mild Preserved Eco : 1% *1: any advantage of using both? I prefer to choose one, please advise. *2: Do you recommend any other products which contain Copper Peptide ? Day Serum Water: 73% Pitera Ex : 2% water lock :2% Skin mimic : 5% Pal-GHK , Pal-GQPR ( Matrixyl 3000 :5% Ume Extract : 3% Safe B3 : 5% Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite : 1% Pure-EGCG : 1% Quick-Coll : 1% Satin Cream Maker : 2% Mild Preserved Eco : 1% Another question: I am interested in making a separate serum for freckles to be applied before using night serum. what would be the formula with the most simple formulation with as few ingredients as possible?

Hi, All chosen ingredients are water-soluble so they will not clog pores.

(*1) Wrinkle-Fill : 2% (*1) Adenosine Liposome : 3% *1: any advantage of using both? I prefer to choose one, please advise.

they are quite different ingredient but your formulation already have many ingredients so choosing just one from these two will not produce much different result.

*2: Do you recommend any other products which contain Copper Peptide ?

some other ingredients that also contain Copper Peptide s are such as Long-Lash which is designed for lengthening the eye lash so it won't be suitable for this facial formulation.

Another question: I am interested in making a separate serum for freckles to be applied before using night serum. what would be the formula with the most simple formulation with as few ingredients as possible?

you may choose 2-3 whitening ingredients adding into any serum base.

Thank you. in general, can I use 1,3- Propanediol (Natural)+ Glycerin in both of these formulas instead of Satin Cream Maker , or would that not work? are there already enough moisturing products in these formula so that 1,3- Propanediol (Natural) / Glycerin combination is not necessary? I do not want the serum (especially day serum) to be too sticky as I want to use it as a make-up base.

in general, can I use 1,3- Propanediol (Natural)+ Glycerin in both of these formulas instead of Satin Cream Maker , or would that not work?

they are totally different function. Satin Cream Maker emulsifies and thickens the formulation, whereas Glycerin or Propanediol are humectants (among other secondary functions).

hi could you take a look at new formulas, the night serum contains whitening now. I removed Copper Peptide s from the night serum and add to day serum because of Disodium EDTA . 1. can you recommend which whitening products can be added to day serum which are ok with Copper Peptide s? 2. in the day serum, do I need Glycerin ? 3. is AnyGel in both formula necessary? not sure how thickening other products are. [Night serum] Water Repair Activator 10% Pal-GHK , Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000 ) DMAE ( SkinTight MD ) Liquid 5% Glycerin 99.5% Wrinkle-Fill 2 % Adenosine Liposome 3% Ethyl Ascorbic acid 9 Vitamin C Ethyl Ether ) 3% Disodium EDTA 0.2% Ectoin 2% Ume Extract 3% Tranexamic Acid 3% 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) 3% Satin Cream Maker 2% Skin mimic 10% AnyGel 1% ? Mild Preserved Eco 1% [ Day serum] Water Pietera Ex 2% water lock 2% Skin mimic 5% Pal-GHK , Pal-GQPR ( Matrixyl 3000 ) 5% Ume Extract 3% Safe B3 5% Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3% Quick-Coll 1% Satin Cream Maker 2% AnyGel 1% ? Mild Preserved Eco 1% [ whitening ?] [ Glycerin or other humectant?] Copper Peptide doesn't have compatibility issue with any whitening agent as long as the pH of the finished product is in suitable range.

Hi, Both formulations are fine. AnyGel will help stabilize the formulation as it contains electrolytic ingredient such as DMAE . We suggest that you adjust the concentration (%) of these thickener that matches the viscosity that you prefer (probably add it in the last step little-by-little until have the texture that you want). Satin Cream Maker can be adjusted down to 1.5% if you have AnyGel (or other thickener ) in the formulation.