Active Ingredients for Cold Process Cream (Exfoliation, Brightening, Wrinkle Reduction)

Asked by: prae.worawiwat On: April 02, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to ask about Active Ingredients that can be included in a Cold Process cream formulation for facial application. I'm looking for ingredients that are not too expensive. I want to formulate a facial cream that can help with exfoliation, skin brightening, or wrinkle reduction, any one of these benefits is fine. Are there any other recommendations?

Answer

Recommended Active Ingredients for Cold Process Cream Focusing on Exfoliation, Brightening, or Wrinkle Reduction

For formulating creams using the Cold Process method, which is suitable for incorporating heat-sensitive active ingredients, there are several interesting active ingredients you can choose from based on your needs, focusing on skin exfoliation, brightening, or wrinkle reduction.

Gentle Exfoliation / Skin Brightening Group

  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): This ingredient provides gentle exfoliation without causing irritation. It also helps brighten the skin, reduce dark spots, and stimulate the natural production of Hyaluronic Acid, keeping the skin moisturized and helping to reduce wrinkles. It can be mixed in the water phase, avoiding prolonged high heat, and the formula's pH should be adjusted to the range of 3-7.
  • FruitPeel™: Extracts from fruit peels (olive, mango, banana) also offer gentle exfoliation. It has properties similar to AHA but is less irritating, making it suitable for sensitive skin. Test results also show it can help reduce wrinkles, dark spots, and improve skin softness, hydration, and brightness. Mix in the water phase, avoid heat above 40°C, and adjust the pH to the range of 3.5-7.0.
  • Bio-S Protease™: A natural enzyme that breaks down proteins, gently removing dead skin cells and promoting skin regeneration for softer skin. It can be mixed in the water phase, avoiding heat above 40°C, and is stable over a wide pH range (4-12).
  • Pumpkin Renew™: Pumpkin extract that accelerates skin cell turnover similar to AHA but is highly gentle and non-irritating, suitable for sensitive skin. Mix in the water phase, avoid heat above 60°C, and adjust the pH to the range of 4.5-7.0.

Skin Brightening Group

  • Phenylethyl Resorcinol (equivalent to SymWhite 377): A highly effective and safe skin brightening agent. It significantly inhibits the melanin production process and also has antioxidant properties. To incorporate, add it in the final step of the cream. Heat not exceeding 50°C can be used briefly to help it dissolve. The final product's pH should be in the range of 4-5. Avoid certain ingredients like Amino Acids, Urea, or some proteins.
  • Yeast Radiance™: A protein extracted from yeast that acts as a brightener (not a whitener), giving the skin a radiant, glowing appearance. It can be used on all skin types as it does not cause irritation. Mix in water, avoid heat, and adjust the pH to the range of 4.0-6.5.

Wrinkle Reduction Group

  • Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5): A peptide that stimulates collagen production and effectively reduces wrinkles. Test results show it can reduce wrinkle width, length, and depth. Mix in the final step, ensuring the product temperature is below 40°C.
  • Wrinkle-Lax™: Steviol glycosides that have a temporary muscle-relaxant effect (similar to BOTOX-like effect), quickly reducing wrinkles caused by repetitive muscle movements. Soluble in water, avoid heat above 60°C.
  • Pep®-PP4 (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): Another highly concentrated peptide that helps reduce wrinkles, increase elasticity, and improve the skin barrier function. Mix in the water phase, avoiding temperatures above 40°C.

When choosing active ingredients for a Cold Process formula, consider the compatibility of each ingredient and the optimal pH range for the overall formulation to ensure the active ingredients work most effectively.