Adding Anti-Irritant Ingredients to Serum Formula (with DMAE)

Asked by: meawnada On: October 17, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I add anti-irritant ingredients to my serum formula, especially if it contains potentially irritating ingredients like DMAE? What are some suitable ingredients, their usage rates, solubility, and how might they affect the formula's texture?

Answer

Adding anti-irritant ingredients to your formula can help soothe potential irritation, especially when using ingredients that can be irritating like DMAE.

Based on the information found, there are several interesting anti-irritant ingredients to consider for your formula. Two options that are individual ingredients which can be added to your serum formula are:

  • Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate: This is a derivative of Glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice root extract. It has anti-inflammatory, soothing, antioxidant, and skin barrier-enhancing properties. It is suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Use at a rate of 0.1-1.5% and it is oil-soluble.
  • Portulaca Extract (Purified Colorless Liquid): This extract from Portulaca oleracea contains components that help reduce skin irritation. It is commonly used in products for sensitive skin. Use at a rate of 0.1-0.5% and it is water-soluble. Avoid using high heat when mixing.

Another option is Omega Soothing Cream (Compare To Eucerin), which is a ready-made cream base containing Omega Oil, Licochalcone A (from licorice root extract), and Ceramide 3. It helps reduce dry, red, itchy, irritated skin. However, as it is a cream base used at a high rate (95-100%), incorporating it into your current serum formula might significantly change the product's texture.

Therefore, if you want to add an anti-irritant to your existing serum formula, you might primarily consider Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate or Portulaca Extract, choosing based on the suitability for your formula's texture (oil or water soluble). It is recommended to patch test the ingredient at the concentration you plan to use in your formula before applying it to your entire face to ensure it does not cause irritation.