Adding Exfoliation to Hyaluron Serum (Preservative-Free)

Question

I want to add exfoliating properties to the Hyaluron Serum Preservative-Free formula [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/recipes/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%A3/hyaluron-serum-preservative-free/:2k6hmans]Hyaluron Serum[/url:2k6hmans] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:2k6hmans]Preservative-Free[/url:2k6hmans]). Which ingredients should I use, and what percentage should I use? Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Here are some ingredients you could consider adding to your Hyaluron Serum to provide exfoliation. Since your serum is likely water-based, ingredients that dissolve in water would be easiest to incorporate.

Exfoliating Ingredients for Serum Formulations

Several ingredients offer gentle exfoliation suitable for a serum:

Natural PHA (Gluconolactone) and Malt-Exfo™ (Maltobionic acid): These are Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). PHAs are known for providing gentle exfoliation with less irritation compared to AHAs, and they also offer moisturizing benefits.
- Natural PHA (Gluconolactone) dissolves in water. The formula pH should be in the range of 3.4-4.5 for optimal efficiency. It takes about 2 hours to fully dissolve in water at room temperature. Usage rate is typically 1-15%.
- Malt-Exfo™ (Maltobionic acid) also dissolves in water. Avoid heat above 50°C when mixing. Usage rate is 1-5%.
Pumpkin Renew™: This is a pumpkin extract that gently accelerates skin cell turnover. It is suitable for sensitive skin. It mixes in the water phase, avoiding heat above 60°C. The formula pH should be in the range of 4.5-7.0. Recommended usage is 1-10% (3-5% for daily use, 10% for occasional).
FruitPeel™: This extract blend from olive, mango, and banana peels offers gentle exfoliation and is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It mixes in the water phase, avoiding heat above 40°C. The formula pH should be in the range of 3.5-7.0. Usage rate is 1-5% (3% recommended).
Bio-S Protease™: A natural enzyme that gently removes dead skin cells. It is a stabilized liquid enzyme that dissolves directly in water. Avoid heat above 40°C when mixing. It is stable across a wide pH range (4-12). Usage rate is 0.1-5%.

Other Considerations

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid (LHA): This is another exfoliating ingredient (Lipo Hydroxy Acid) that is gentler than BHA and effective for exfoliation and helping with clogged pores. However, it needs to be mixed into the oil phase by heating to 70-80°C to melt, which might not be suitable for a purely water-based serum. Recommended usage rate is 0.5-5%, but it's suggested not to exceed 2% due to potential irritation at higher rates.

Usage Percentage

Regarding the percentage to use, the optimal amount depends on the specific ingredient you choose, the desired level of exfoliation, and the overall compatibility with your existing Hyaluron Serum formula. The ranges provided above are general guidelines from the product descriptions. It is always recommended to start with a lower concentration and test the stability and efficacy in your specific formulation. You should consult the detailed documentation for the chosen ingredient for precise usage recommendations and formulation guidelines.