Adjusting Your BB Cream Formula

Your formula uses a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion system, which is excellent for durability and water resistance. Adjusting the texture and water resistance involves modifying the balance and types of ingredients in the oil/silicone phase and the water phase.

1. Making the Formula Thinner and Easier to Spread

To make your BB cream formula less thick and easier to spread, consider the following adjustments:

• Adjust the Oil/Silicone to Water Ratio: In a W/O emulsion, the proportion of the oil and silicone phase relative to the water phase significantly impacts thickness. Increasing the percentage of the oil/silicone phase and decreasing the percentage of the water phase will generally result in a thinner formula. The description for Water-in-Oil EZ suggests that a higher proportion of oil or silicone leads to a more liquid formula.
• Reduce Beeswax: Beeswax is a wax used as a thickener and structurant. Reducing the amount of Beeswax in your formula will directly decrease its viscosity and make it softer and easier to spread.
• Optimize Silicone Usage:
  • Cyclomethicone (like Cyclopentasiloxane) is a light, volatile silicone that provides a silky feel and improves spreadability. Increasing its proportion can help the formula glide on the skin more easily.
  • Dimethicone (like the Light/50 type) also provides slip and a smooth feel. Using lower viscosity Dimethicone or adjusting the ratio of different viscosity silicones can impact the final texture.
  • If Silok9905 and Silok2115 are silicone elastomers or gels (like Silicone Gel 9040 or Silicone Gel 5045), these ingredients contribute significantly to the formula's body and texture. Reducing their concentration will help make the formula thinner and less viscous.

2. Making the Formula More Water and Sweat Resistant

Your W/O emulsion base already provides a good foundation for water resistance. To enhance it further for all-day wear:

• Leverage the Oil/Silicone Phase: The continuous oil/silicone phase in a W/O emulsion forms a water-repellent film on the skin. Ensuring a sufficient amount of film-forming ingredients in this phase is key.
• Utilize Silicones and Waxes: Ingredients like Beeswax, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, and silicone gels/elastomers (potentially Silok9905 and Silok2115) contribute to forming a durable, water-resistant film on the skin.
• Use Treated Titanium Dioxide: Ensure you are using a surface-treated Titanium Dioxide (like the Waterproof™ grades treated with Triethoxycaprylylsilane or Dimethicone) that is designed to disperse well in the oil phase and enhance water resistance and adhesion to the skin. Proper dispersion of both Titanium Dioxide and other pigments in the oil/silicone phase is crucial for an even, long-lasting, and water-resistant finish.
• Consider Emulsion Stability: The description for Water-in-Oil EZ suggests adding 1% Magnesium Sulfate to help stabilize the W/O emulsion. A stable emulsion is less likely to separate when exposed to sweat or water, helping the product maintain its integrity and water-resistant film throughout the day.

By carefully adjusting the ratios of your oil/silicone phase to your water phase, reducing the amount of solid thickeners like Beeswax, optimizing the types and amounts of silicones, and ensuring your pigments and Titanium Dioxide are well-dispersed and ideally using treated versions, you can achieve a thinner, more spreadable, and more water and sweat resistant BB cream.