Adjusting cream formula for lighter, non-sticky texture

Question

Could you please review my formula and advise on necessary adjustments? I am trying to create a cream with a light, non-sticky texture, but the current result is thick and feels sticky when applied.

Here is the formula:

Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-odor) - 5 %
SPF Protect Ultra II - 5 %
Polyethylene Wax - 2 %
LipidSoft Disperse - 5 %
Silk Mica Powder - 6 %
Beige Iron Oxides Easy Mix - 1 %
Titanium Dioxide 200 nm Easy DisperseTM - 2 %
Mild Preserved Eco - 1 %
Water - 73 %

My current mixing procedure is as follows:

Combine ingredients 5, 6, and 7 (powders).
Heat water (ingredient 9) to 65°C, simultaneously heating the oil phase (ingredients 1, 2, 3, 4) to 65°C.
Gradually pour the water into the oil phase while stirring and maintaining heat until all water is added. Add ingredient 8 and stir, then turn off the heat.
Gradually add the mixed powders (from step 1) while stirring until the mixture starts to thicken.

The resulting cream is thick, not liquid, and feels sticky when applied. How should I adjust the formula or mixing procedure to achieve a lighter, less sticky consistency?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Adjustment Advice

Thank you for providing your formula and details about the texture you are achieving. You are looking to make the cream lighter and less sticky.

Based on your formula and mixing method, here are some points to consider and a suggested adjustment:

Your formula contains ingredients like Polyethylene Wax and a significant percentage of powders (Silk Mica Powder, Beige Iron Oxides Easy Mix, Titanium Dioxide 200 nm Easy Disperse). These ingredients, while necessary for the product's function (like color and potentially SPF), can contribute to a thicker texture. The method of adding the powder blend at the end, after the emulsion has started to thicken, might also lead to less optimal dispersion and potentially a heavier or slightly sticky feel.

To improve the texture and reduce stickiness, I recommend adjusting the mixing method to ensure better dispersion of the powders within the oil phase before emulsification.

Here is a revised mixing procedure:

Revised Mixing Instructions

Combine Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-odor), SPF Protect Ultra II, Polyethylene Wax, and LipidSoft Disperse in a container. Heat this oil phase to 65°C, stirring until the wax is fully melted and all ingredients are combined.
In a separate container, thoroughly mix the dry powders: Silk Mica Powder, Beige Iron Oxides Easy Mix, and Titanium Dioxide 200 nm Easy Disperse.
Gradually add the mixed powder blend from step 2 to the heated oil phase from step 1. Stir or blend with a high-shear mixer (if available) to ensure the powders are fully dispersed in the oil phase. Maintain the temperature at 65°C.
In a third container, heat the Water to 65°C.
Slowly add the heated Water phase (step 4) to the heated oil/powder phase (step 3) while blending continuously with a high-shear mixer or stirring vigorously. Continue blending until a homogeneous emulsion is formed. Maintain the temperature at 65°C during the addition.
Once all the water is added and the emulsion is stable, remove the mixture from heat and continue stirring gently while it cools.
When the cream has cooled to below 40°C, add Mild Preserved Eco and stir until fully incorporated.
Continue stirring occasionally until the cream reaches room temperature.

By dispersing the powders in the oil phase first, you can achieve a smoother and potentially lighter texture as the powders will be more evenly distributed within the continuous phase of the emulsion.

If, after trying this revised mixing method, the texture is still not as light or as non-sticky as you desire, you might consider slightly reducing the percentage of Polyethylene Wax or the total powder content in the formula. However, start with the mixing method adjustment first, as it often makes a significant difference.