Adjusting Cream Formula for Soft, White Facial Skin and Shelf Life
Question
I have an initial cream formula and want to adjust it for use as a facial cream. I want the cream to make the skin soft and white. I also want it to have good quality and shelf life.
Specifically, I want to replace Mineral Oil and add Alpha Arbutin.
Could you provide guidance on:
- Which oils I should use (besides Mineral Oil) to achieve soft skin?
- What else should I add (like Alpha Arbutin)?
- How to ensure the cream has good quality and can be stored for a long time?
Based on the expert's response, the adjusted formula for a 10 KG batch is:
Adjusted Formula (for 10 KG)
PHASE 1:
- SODIUM POLYACRYLATE: 120 GM (1.2%)
- DICAPRYLYL ETHER: 300 GM (3%)
- OLIVE OIL: 200 GM (2%)
- SQUALANE: 100 GM (1%)
- ROSE HIP OIL: 100 GM (1%)
- GLYCERINE 99.5% USP: 400 GM (4%)
PHASE 2:
- DMDM HYDANTOIN: 60 GM (0.6%)
- DEIONIZED WATER: 8470 GM (84.7%)
- SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE: 20 GM (0.2%)
- ALPHA ARBUTIN: 200 GM (2%)
PHASE 3:
- PERFUME: 30 GM (0.3%)
Total: 10000 GM (100%)
Could you elaborate on the properties of the added oils (Olive Oil, Squalane, Rose Hip Oil) and Alpha Arbutin, and provide further recommendations regarding preservatives, perfume, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, manufacturing, and storage?
Answer
Cream Formula Adjustment for Soft and White Facial Skin
Based on the initial cream formula you received, it can be adapted for use as a facial cream with modifications to the ingredients as you requested, aiming for soft and white skin, along with additional advice from forum experts.
Ingredient Modifications
As you wish to replace Mineral Oil and add Alpha Arbutin for a 10 KG batch, the ingredients can be adjusted as follows:
Adjusted Formula (for 10 KG)
PHASE 1:
- SODIUM POLYACRYLATE: 120 GM (1.2%)
- DICAPRYLYL ETHER: 300 GM (3%)
- OLIVE OIL: 200 GM (2%)
- SQUALANE: 100 GM (1%)
- ROSE HIP OIL: 100 GM (1%)
- GLYCERINE 99.5% USP: 400 GM (4%)
PHASE 2:
- DMDM HYDANTOIN: 60 GM (0.6%)
- DEIONIZED WATER: 8470 GM (84.7%)
- SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE: 20 GM (0.2%)
- ALPHA ARBUTIN: 200 GM (2%)
PHASE 3:
- PERFUME: 30 GM (0.3%)
Total: 10000 GM (100%)
- Note: In this adjustment, Alpha Arbutin is added at a concentration of 2%, which is a recommended rate for noticeable whitening effects. The amount of Deionized Water is reduced accordingly to maintain the total batch weight at 10 KG.*
Properties of Modified Ingredients
- Olive Oil, Squalane, and Rose Hip Oil: These oils are emollients that help soften and moisturize the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier for a smoother and healthier feel. Squalane is similar to the skin's natural oils and is easily absorbed. Rose Hip Oil has properties that help repair skin and reduce the appearance of marks. However, Squalane and Rose Hip Oil, especially Virgin or Extra Virgin grades, are sensitive to heat and light. High temperatures should be avoided during processing, and the finished product should be stored in a cool, dark place.
- Alpha Arbutin: This ingredient helps inhibit melanin production, leading to brighter and more even-toned skin. It is considered a safe and effective ingredient for skin brightening.
Additional Recommendations for Quality and Shelf Life
- Preservative: The original formula uses DMDM Hydantoin, a formaldehyde-releasing preservative. Some experts suggest avoiding this type of preservative. If you prefer, you can research and choose alternative broad-spectrum preservatives suitable for emulsion formulas to ensure good shelf life and prevent microbial growth.
- Perfume: For a facial cream, you may consider omitting the perfume if it's not essential. Perfume offers no benefit to the skin and can be a source of irritation or allergic reactions, especially for facial skin which is often more sensitive than body skin.
- SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE: A forum expert noted that this ingredient is a surfactant and might be redundant in this formula since Sodium Polyacrylate, which acts as a cream maker, is already present. Omitting it could simplify the formula.
- Manufacturing and Storage: To ensure good quality and shelf life, follow hygienic manufacturing practices, use clean equipment, and control temperatures appropriately. Especially when incorporating heat-sensitive oils, add them in the later phase at temperatures below 30°C, as recommended for Alpha Arbutin. Store the finished product in a sealed container, away from sunlight and heat.
The ingredients you wish to use, such as Alpha Arbutin, Squalane, Rose Hip Oil, Olive Oil, as well as other basic ingredients in the formula like Sodium Polyacrylate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerine, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, and Perfume, should be available from cosmetic chemical suppliers, including the one you mentioned.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Olive Oil (Extra Virgin)
Squalane (Olive)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Rose Hip Oil (Virgin, Fresh)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form)
Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin)
DMDM Hydantoin