Adjusting Formula for Solid Lipstick Stick

Asked by: simontinil On: December 18, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How to adjust a formula containing high percentages of liquid/gel components (like Isododecane, Silicone Film, Warp Cream Maker, Silicone Gel) and powders to create a solid lipstick stick, and what ingredients (like waxes and butters) and percentage ranges are needed?

Answer

Adjusting Formula for Solid Lipstick Stick

Hello! Thank you for reaching out regarding adjusting your formula for a solid lipstick stick.

I have reviewed the list of ingredients and percentages you provided:

  1. LipidSoft moist 15%
  2. Isododecane 22%
  3. Silk Talc Powder (Methicone Coated) 10%
  4. MatteSilica 10%
  5. Silicone Film 20%
  6. Warp Cream Maker 17%
  7. Silicone Gel 16 %

First, I noticed that the total percentage of these ingredients adds up to 110%, which is more than 100%. Could you please double-check the percentages?

Regarding your goal of making a solid lipstick stick, the current list of ingredients and their high percentages of liquid/gel components (such as Isododecane, Silicone Film, Warp Cream Maker, and Silicone Gel) are more typical for liquid or cream formulations, not solid sticks.

To create a solid lipstick stick, the formula requires a solid structure, which is primarily provided by waxes and solid butters. These are currently missing from your list.

To convert this concept into a solid lipstick, you would need to significantly change the formulation by:

  1. Adding solidifying agents: Incorporate waxes (like Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Beeswax, Microcrystalline wax) and solid butters (like Shea butter, Cocoa butter) to provide the necessary hardness and structure for a stick.
  2. Reducing or replacing liquid/gel components: Ingredients like Isododecane, Warp Cream Maker, and Silicone Gel, which are used in high amounts in liquid/cream formulas, would need to be significantly reduced or replaced with solidifying agents and other oils/esters suitable for sticks.
  3. Adjusting percentages: The percentages of other ingredients like LipidSoft moist, Silk Talc, MatteSilica, and Silicone Film would need to be carefully adjusted to fit within the new structure and achieve the desired texture, finish, and stability of the lipstick stick.

A typical solid lipstick formulation includes components like:

  • Waxes: 10-25% (provide structure, hardness)
  • Butters: 5-15% (add emolliency, contribute to structure)
  • Oils/Esters: 30-60% (provide emolliency, slip, gloss, pigment dispersion - LipidSoft moist fits here)
  • Powders/Fillers: 5-15% (adjust texture, mattify - Silk Talc and MatteSilica fit here)
  • Film Formers: 0-10% (improve wear - Silicone Film fits here, likely at a lower percentage)
  • Pigments: 5-15% (for color)
  • Other Additives: (e.g., antioxidants, fragrance)

Creating a stable and well-performing lipstick stick requires careful balancing of these components. Simply adjusting the percentages of your current list will not result in a solid stick because the fundamental structural components are missing.

Would you like me to provide a sample guideline for a solid lipstick base formulation structure, listing the types of ingredients and typical percentage ranges? You could then use this as a starting point and see how you might incorporate some of your existing ingredients (like LipidSoft, Silk Talc, MatteSilica, Silicone Film) at appropriate levels, replacing the liquid/gel components with waxes and butters.