Adjusting Hair Conditioner Formula: Reducing Thickness and Increasing Softness (Silicone-Free)

Question

I am making a hair conditioner using the following formula:

Initial Formula:

Cetearyl Alcohol: 5%
BTAC: 2%
Butter Cream Maker: 2%
Oil: 4%
Glycerin: 5%
Panthenol: 0.5%
Poly conditioner: 3% (makes water thicker, unsure of specific type)
GuarCat weightless: 0.15%
Pure Keratin: 1%
Fragrance: 2%
Preservative: 1%
Water: Balance to 100%

When I made the first batch with this formula, the texture was very thick and my hair was not soft or smooth.

I then adjusted the formula for the second batch (percentages in parentheses below):

Adjusted Formula (2nd attempt):

Cetearyl Alcohol: 3%
BTAC: 5%
Butter Cream Maker: 2%
Oil: 5%
Glycerin: 10%
Panthenol: 0.5%
Poly conditioner: 5% (makes water thicker, unsure of specific type)
GuarCat weightless: 0.2%
Pure Keratin: 1%
Fragrance: 2%
Preservative: 1%
Water: Balance to 100%

The second batch resulted in hair that was somewhat softer and smoother, but the texture was still very thick, similar to the first batch. The texture of the second batch looked shinier and was harder to rub between hands before applying to hair.

Could you please advise on how to adjust the formula to make the texture less thick? Also, how can I make my hair softer and smoother without using silicone?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Adjusting Your Hair Conditioner Formula

Based on your formula and observations, the thickness likely comes from the combination of Cetearyl Alcohol and Butter Cream Maker. While you reduced Cetearyl Alcohol in your second attempt, the formula remained very thick. To reduce the thickness, you will need to decrease the amounts of these key thickeners.

To increase softness without using silicones, you can increase the concentration of conditioning agents like BTAC, Panthenol, and GuarCat Weight-less.

Here is a suggested adjustment for your formula to reduce thickness and improve softness:

Cetearyl Alcohol: 2%
BTAC: 7%
Butter Cream Maker: 1.5%
Oil: 5%
Glycerin: 10%
Panthenol: 2%
Poly conditioner: 3% (Keep this the same for now, but note that the specific type of Poly conditioner can also affect thickness and conditioning. If reducing Cetearyl Alcohol and Butter Cream Maker isn't enough, you might consider adjusting this as well, depending on the type you used.)
GuarCat weightless: 0.5%
Pure Keratin: 1%
Fragrance: 2%
Preservative: 1%
Water: Balance to 100%

Explanation of Adjustments:

Cetearyl Alcohol and Butter Cream Maker: Reducing these ingredients directly lowers the overall solid/wax content, which is the primary driver of your formula's thickness.
BTAC, Panthenol, and GuarCat Weight-less: Increasing these conditioning agents will enhance the slip and softness of the hair without relying on silicones. GuarCat Weight-less is particularly useful as it provides conditioning benefits without significantly increasing viscosity.
Glycerin and Oil: Keeping these at the levels from your second attempt helps maintain moisture and emolliency.
Poly conditioner: The effect of this ingredient depends heavily on the specific type (e.g., different Polyquaternium types have varying thickening and conditioning properties). If you know the specific type, you can refer to its properties for further adjustments if needed.

Remember that formulation is often an iterative process. You may need to make further small adjustments based on the results of this modified formula.