Adjusting Liquid Soap Formula for More Foam and Thickness

Asked by: minnie.dream On: October 31, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need a liquid soap that produces a lot of foam, cleans well, and doesn't dry out the skin.

I tried the following formula:

  • Sulfate Free Shampoo Base 35%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5%
  • Flora Foam 5% (Added for thickness)
  • Fragrance 5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Water 49%

The result was almost no foam. Based on the above formula, how should I adjust or reduce which ingredients to get a formula with abundant foam and a non-liquid consistency?

Answer

Regarding your liquid soap formula request for a product with abundant foam, good cleansing, and non-drying properties.

You've tried a formula:

  • Sulfate Free Shampoo Base (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) 35%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5%
  • Flora Foam 5%
  • Fragrance 5%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Water 49%

You mentioned this formula resulted in almost no foam.

Here's an analysis and suggestion for adjustment:
The Sulfate Free Shampoo Base, likely based on Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, is a very mild surfactant. While excellent for gentle cleansing and non-drying properties, it naturally produces less foam compared to sulfate-based surfactants. The amount of Cocamidopropyl Betaine (a foam booster) at 5% might not be sufficient to create abundant foam in this system. Flora Foam helps stabilize foam and adds some viscosity, but the overall surfactant blend and ratio might be the reason for low foam. The formula also lacks a common thickener like salt (Sodium Chloride) which is often used to build viscosity in these types of surfactant systems. The fragrance level at 5% is quite high for a wash-off product and could potentially interfere with the formulation stability or foaming, although this is less common.

To improve foam and thickness while maintaining mildness, consider adjusting the formula as follows:

Suggested Revised Formula:

  • Sulfate Free Shampoo Base (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate) 35%
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10% (Increased)
  • Flora Foam 5%
  • Fragrance 1% (Reduced)
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%
  • Sodium Chloride (Salt) 1-2% (Added - adjust to desired thickness)
  • Water to 100% (Approx. 46-47%)

Explanation of Changes:

  • Increased Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Increasing this co-surfactant helps to significantly boost foam volume and stability, and also contributes to the mildness of the formula.
  • Added Sodium Chloride (Salt): Salt is a common and effective thickener for many surfactant systems, including those with anionic and amphoteric surfactants like yours. Start with 1% and gradually add more (up to 2%) while stirring until the desired thickness is achieved. Be careful not to add too much, as it can cause the formula to thin out again.
  • Reduced Fragrance: A 1% fragrance level is typically sufficient for a pleasant scent in a wash-off product and reduces the risk of formulation issues or skin sensitivity.
  • Sulfate Free Shampoo Base & Flora Foam: Kept at original percentages as they are key components of your desired mild system.

This revised formula increases the foam-boosting co-surfactant and adds a thickener. While the Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate base is inherently milder and lower-foaming than sulfates, these adjustments should significantly improve the foaming performance compared to your initial attempt, while still being gentle on the skin.

Remember to test the revised formula in a small batch first and adjust the salt concentration to get the viscosity you prefer.