Formulation Guidance

1. Combining Oil-in-Water (O/W) and Water-in-Oil (W/O) Ingredients

Generally, it is difficult and often leads to instability to combine significant amounts of ingredients designed for Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions and Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsions in the same formula. Emulsions are inherently either O/W or W/O, based on which phase is the continuous one.

• Satin Cream Maker is an O/W emulsifier and thickener, meaning it helps disperse oil droplets in a continuous water phase.
• Silky Serum Base Plus is a W/O base containing silicones and a W/O emulsifier, designed to create emulsions where water droplets are dispersed in a continuous oil/silicone phase.

Attempting to combine these two types of systems directly in a single formula will likely result in separation or a very unstable, thin product, as you have experienced. To create a stable emulsion, you typically choose one type of emulsifier system (either O/W or W/O) and build your formula around it.

2. Alternative for Silky Texture in an Oil-in-Water System

You are correct that Silky Serum Base Plus (a W/O system) is not compatible for use in the same formula with Satin Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, and Reshape Gel, which are used to build an O/W system.

If you want a texture similar to Silky Serum Base Plus (which provides a soft, smooth, and quickly absorbing feel, likely due to its silicone content) but within an O/W system compatible with Satin Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, and Reshape Gel, you can use Cyclopentasiloxane or Yerba Santa Protein.

• Cyclopentasiloxane is a lightweight silicone that provides a silky, smooth feel and evaporates quickly. It can be incorporated into the oil phase of an O/W emulsion or used alongside O/W emulsifiers like Satin Cream Maker (which can handle up to 20% silicones).
• Yerba Santa Protein is a natural ingredient that provides a silicone-like soft and smooth texture. It is water-soluble and can be added to the water phase of your O/W formula. It also offers moisturizing and skin protection benefits.

You can add either Cyclopentasiloxane (in the oil phase) or Yerba Santa Protein (in the water phase) to your O/W formula to achieve a similar desired texture without using the incompatible Silky Serum Base Plus.

3. Adjusting Your Formula for Thicker Consistency

Your current formula is likely too liquid because you are trying to combine incompatible O/W and W/O systems (Satin Cream Maker vs. Silky Serum Base Plus). The high percentage of Silky Serum Base Plus (12%) and Cyclopentasiloxane (3%) is disrupting the O/W emulsion being formed by Satin Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, and Reshape Gel.

To achieve a thicker, non-runny cream texture in an O/W system using Satin Cream Maker, Pro Polymer, and Reshape Gel, you need to make the following adjustments:

• Remove Silky Serum Base Plus (12%) and Cyclopentasiloxane (3%) from the formula. These ingredients are designed for a different type of emulsion system and are causing instability.
• Increase the concentration of your O/W emulsifier/thickener. Your current 1.3% Satin Cream Maker is likely too low to create a stable, thick cream, especially with the other ingredients present. Increase Satin Cream Maker to at least 2.0-3.0% to provide sufficient emulsification and viscosity for your oil phase (which will now be around 3.2%).

• Consider increasing your water-phase thickeners. While Pro Polymer and Reshape Gel are electrolyte resistant, the concentration of various active ingredients in your water phase might still impact viscosity. Increase Pro Polymer to 1.5-2.0% and Reshape Gel to 3.0-4.0% to build a stronger gel network in the water phase.

• Adjust the water percentage to compensate for the removed Silky Serum Base Plus and Cyclopentasiloxane, and the increased thickeners. The total percentage should add up to 100%.

Revised Mixing Method:

Given the heat sensitivity of several ingredients (Alpha Arbutin, Matrixyl 3000, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Yerba Santa Protein, Sheep Placenta, White Caviar Extract, Lotus Extract, Spanish Bee Pollen Extract, Repair Activator, and Reshape Gel above 50°C), follow these steps:

1. Water Phase (Phase A): Combine Water, EDTA, Allantoin, Alpha Arbutin, L-Carnitine, 4D Hyaluronic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lotus Extract, Pearl Extract, White Caviar Extract, Sheep Placenta, Spanish Bee Pollen Extract. Disperse Pro Polymer by sprinkling slowly into the water while stirring, or pre-disperse in 1,2-Hexanediol if using >5%. Disperse Reshape Gel in the water phase and heat gently to 40-50°C while stirring to disperse, then remove from heat and cool.
2. Oil Phase (Phase B): Combine Shea Butter, Rose Hip Oil, Squalane oil, Perfect C, MSH White. Gently heat Shea Butter to melt (around 60-70°C). Add MSH White and stir to dissolve with gentle heat (around 60°C). Add Rose Hip Oil, Squalane, and Perfect C when the oil phase cools slightly.
3. Emulsification: Add the increased amount of Satin Cream Maker to the cooled Water Phase (Phase A) and mix well until dispersed. Then, slowly add the Oil Phase (Phase B) to the Water Phase while mixing continuously. Use moderate speed mixing (below 2500 rpm) until a cream forms.
4. Add Heat-Sensitive Actives: Once the cream has formed and cooled below 40°C (ideally below 30°C for Alpha Arbutin), add Yerba Santa Protein, Repair Activator, Matrixyl 3000, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sheep Placenta, White Caviar Extract, Lotus Extract, and Spanish Bee Pollen Extract. Mix gently until fully incorporated.
5. Final Additions: Add Mild Preserved Eco and Happy Lotus fragrance. Mix gently.
6. Check pH: Verify the final pH is within the optimal range for your ingredients, especially Perfect C (pH 5.0-5.5) and Alpha Arbutin (pH 3.5-6.5). Adjust if necessary using a suitable acid or base.

By removing the incompatible W/O base and increasing the O/W emulsifier and water-phase thickeners, you should achieve a stable and thicker cream consistency. Adding Cyclopentasiloxane or Yerba Santa Protein can help replicate the silky feel you desire.