Adjusting pH and Usage Rate in a Gel Formulation with Active Ingredients

Asked by: doremon47 On: December 27, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a gel product and need advice on adjusting the pH. My formula includes:

  • Peptides (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR), REGU®-AGE)
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
  • Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG™)
  • Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder)
  • Pro Polymer
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Disodium EDTA

I want the final pH to be below 6.5, considering the pH range of Apple Stem Cell Extract (6.00-8.00). How can I adjust the pH? Also, is using 5% Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder) too much, given the recommended usage rate is 0.5-5% and the manufacturer recommends 3%?

Answer

Adjusting pH in Your Gel Formulation

You've asked about adjusting the pH of your gel formulation, particularly to keep it below 6.5, given the pH range of the Apple Stem Cell Extract. It's a good question, as the final pH of a cosmetic product is crucial for stability, efficacy, and skin compatibility.

While the Apple Stem Cell Extract has a pH range of 6.00-8.00, the final pH of your formulation will be the result of all the ingredients combined. Looking at your formula, several ingredients are known to be acidic or can contribute to a lower pH:

  • Peptides: Ingredients like Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR), and REGU®-AGE are peptides. Peptides are generally acidic.
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: While the description mentions the pH is adjusted for easy mixing, DMAE itself can influence the final pH.
  • Green Tea Extract (Hi-EGCG™): The description for Hi-EGCG™ suggests a pH range of 4.0-6.5 for formulations using it, indicating its potential acidity.

Given the presence of these ingredients, your final formulation is likely to have a pH that is already in a mildly acidic range, potentially below 6.5, as suggested by the previous comment you shared.

How to Adjust pH:

The most reliable way to know and adjust the pH is to:

  1. Prepare your formulation exactly as planned, ensuring all ingredients are fully dissolved and mixed.
  2. Measure the pH of the finished product using a calibrated pH meter or accurate pH strips.
  3. If the pH is above your target of 6.5, you can lower it by adding a dilute solution of a cosmetic-grade acid, such as Citric Acid or Lactic Acid. Add the acid solution drop by drop, mixing thoroughly after each addition, and re-measure the pH until it is within your desired range (ideally between 5.0 and 6.0 for skin compatibility, but below 6.5 as per your goal).

Regarding the concentration of Apple Stem Cell Extract:

You asked if 5% Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder) is too much. The product description states the usage rate is 0.5-5%, and the manufacturer recommends 3% but says you can use up to 5%. So, 5% is within the manufacturer's recommended maximum usage rate. The previous comment you shared suggested reducing the amount, which is a valid consideration, especially given the cost and the potential to achieve desired results with a lower concentration or by combining it with other actives. Ultimately, the decision on the concentration within the recommended range depends on your desired efficacy and budget.

Your formula includes a good mix of anti-aging ingredients like peptides (Argireline, Matrixyl 3000, Regu-age), DMAE, and antioxidants (Green Tea Extract, Apple Stem Cell). Pro Polymer acts as your gel maker, Phenoxyethanol is the preservative, and Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent to improve stability, especially if your water source contains metal ions.

After preparing your gel, measure the pH first. It might already be in the desired range due to the acidic nature of some of your active ingredients.