Advice for Oily T-Zone and Anti-Aging Serum Formulation
Question
I am formulating a serum for my oily T-zone using a silicone serum base. I plan to include oil control ingredients such as L-Carnitine 5%, MSM 5%, Licochalcone A, and Vitamin B3 5%. Could you advise on the appropriate usage percentage for Licochalcone A, considering different forms?
Additionally, I would like to add an anti-aging ingredient that does not contribute to oiliness. What would you recommend, and what is the recommended usage rate and addition method?
Answer
Advice for Oily T-Zone and Anti-Aging Serum
Thank you for sharing your experience with the formulations. It's good to hear the BHA toner is helping with inflammatory acne and making clogged pores easier to extract. The issue with the gel feeling heavy and increasing oiliness in the T-zone is understandable, especially with certain ingredients and skin types.
Separating products for your T-zone and U-zone is an excellent approach when different areas of your face have distinct needs, like oiliness in the T-zone and normal or dry skin elsewhere.
The silicone serum base formula you provided, along with the suggested oil-control ingredients (L-Carnitine 5%, MSM 5%, Licochalcone A, and Vitamin B3 5%), is a good direction for addressing the oiliness in your T-zone before makeup.
Regarding the percentage for Licochalcone A, there are typically two common forms available:
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble): For oil control, acne, inflammation, and irritation, the recommended usage rate is 0.5-1.0%. This form is soluble in water.
- Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%): This is a more concentrated form. For oil control, acne, inflammation, and irritation, the recommended usage rate is 0.1-0.2%. This form is soluble in glycols (like Propylene Glycol in your base) but not directly in water.
Choose the form that best suits your base formulation and desired concentration. Both are effective for oil control and anti-inflammatory benefits.
For adding an anti-aging ingredient that doesn't make the skin oily, Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000) is a great choice, as previously suggested. It is a peptide blend that helps stimulate collagen synthesis, reduce wrinkles, and improve skin elasticity without adding oiliness. The recommended usage rate for Matrixyl 3000 is 3-5%, with 3% being a common and effective concentration. It is water-soluble and should typically be added in the final step of your formulation at a temperature below 40°C.
By incorporating these ingredients into a suitable base for your T-zone, you can create a serum specifically targeted to control oiliness and provide anti-aging benefits before applying makeup.
