Alpha Arbutin Formulation Guide for Cream and Serum

Asked by: sivacoupe On: May 04, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you provide guidance on how to formulate body cream, face cream, and serum using Alpha Arbutin? Specifically, what are the recommended concentration, mixing method (including temperature and phase), optimal pH range, and how to prevent discoloration? Is Alpha Arbutin water-soluble?

Answer

Alpha Arbutin Formulations for Body Cream and Face Cream/Serum

Alpha Arbutin is a popular skin-brightening ingredient that is water-soluble and effective in reducing melanin production by inhibiting the Tyrosinase enzyme. It is considered safe and can be used in various cosmetic formulations like creams, lotions, gels, and serums.

Here is some guidance on incorporating Alpha Arbutin into your body cream and face cream/serum formulations:

General Usage Guidelines:

  • Recommended Concentration: Use Alpha Arbutin at a concentration of 0.2% to 2%. For effective skin brightening, a concentration of 2% is generally recommended. Do not exceed 2%.
  • Mixing Method: Alpha Arbutin should be added to the formulation during the final phase, after the emulsion has been formed and cooled down. The temperature of the mixture should be below 30°C.
  • pH Level: The optimal pH range for Alpha Arbutin is 3.5 to 6.5. It is crucial to ensure the final formulation's pH falls within this range. Avoid formulations with a pH higher than 8, as this can cause Alpha Arbutin to break down into hydroquinone.
  • Preventing Discoloration: To help prevent discoloration of the formula, it is recommended to include ActiveProtecTM OX at a concentration of 0.6%.
  • Solubility: Alpha Arbutin is water-soluble, so it should be dissolved in the water phase of your formulation.

For Body Cream and Face Cream/Serum:

The same principles apply to both body cream and face cream/serum formulations. You can incorporate Alpha Arbutin at the recommended concentration (up to 2%) into your desired cream or serum base, ensuring the mixing instructions and pH requirements are met.

Remember to add Alpha Arbutin and ActiveProtecTM OX (if using) in the cool-down phase.

There are different grades of Alpha Arbutin available, including those from Switzerland and China (Enzymatic Synthesis or Crystal Form). All function similarly when incorporated correctly into a formulation.

For best results, continuous use for at least 8 weeks is recommended, though individual results may vary.