Analysis and Modification of Water-in-Oil Sunscreen Formula

Asked by: wit246 On: September 28, 2024 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding the provided MySkinRecipes Water-in-Oil sunscreen formula (Water 44%, Cyclomethicone 15%, Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid 25%, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid 15%, Mild Preserved Eco 1%), please provide the SPF value, confirm if it's suitable for face and body, recommend the type of colorant to add, advise on the base for nourishing ingredients (water or oil), and suggest alternative ingredients for Cyclomethicone.

Answer

Analysis of the Water-in-Oil Sunscreen Formula

Here is an analysis of the sunscreen formula you provided, addressing your questions:

  1. SPF Value: Based on testing of this specific formula (Water 44%, Cyclomethicone 15%, Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid 25%, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid 15%, Mild Preserved Eco 1%), the SPF obtained is 51.06 with PA++.

  2. Face and Body Use: This formula is suitable for use on both the face and body. Physical sunscreens containing Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are generally considered safe for facial skin. The ingredients are described as lightweight and non-clogging, which are beneficial properties for facial products. While it is a water-in-oil emulsion, which can sometimes feel heavier than oil-in-water types, the inclusion of Cyclomethicone helps provide a smoother, less greasy application suitable for both areas.

  3. Adding Color: To add color to this water-in-oil formula, you should use oil-dispersible or silicone-dispersible colorants. Since the external phase of the emulsion is the oil/silicone phase (Cyclomethicone), colorants that can disperse properly in this phase will integrate best into the formula.

  4. Nourishing Ingredient Base: For ease of incorporation into this water-in-oil emulsion, oil-soluble or silicone-soluble nourishing ingredients are generally preferred as they will blend directly into the continuous external phase. However, you can also incorporate water-soluble nourishing ingredients by adding them to the water phase before emulsification, provided they do not negatively impact the emulsion stability.

  5. Cyclomethicone Alternatives: Cyclomethicone is used for its light feel and spreadability. Potential alternatives that offer similar properties include other volatile silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane or Isododecane. Substituting Cyclomethicone with another ingredient would require careful testing to ensure the stability and performance (including SPF) of the final emulsion are not compromised.

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