Analysis of a Hydrating and Soothing Serum Formulation

Asked by: ann.thnchnk On: September 11, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Please analyze the following ingredient list for a cosmetic formulation:

  • WATER/AQUA
  • pentylene glycol
  • 1,2-Hexanediol
  • Propanediol
  • Glycerin
  • Sodium Hyaluronate CROSSPOLYMER
  • HYDROLYZED Glycosaminoglycans
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • HYDROLYZED Hyaluronic Acid
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • BENZYL GLYCOL
  • Ethylhexylglycerin
  • RASPBERRY KETONE
  • Panthenol
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Madecassoside
  • Allantoin
  • Xylitol
  • MYRISTOYL/PALMITOYL OXOSTEARAMIDE/ARACHAMIDE MEA
  • Ceramide 3
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Carbomer
  • Arginine
  • Zinc Hyaluronate
  • 4D Hyaluronic Acid
  • Centella Acids (Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid)
  • Ceracare™ Liposome-3

Answer

Ingredient Analysis

This formulation contains a blend of humectants, solvents, soothing agents, skin barrier repair ingredients, a chelating agent, and a thickener, designed primarily for hydration, soothing, and potentially anti-aging benefits.

Hydration and Humectants

Several ingredients in this list are focused on providing moisture to the skin:

  • WATER/AQUA: The primary solvent and base for the formulation, providing essential hydration.
  • Pentylene Glycol: Acts as a solvent, humectant (attracts and retains moisture), and can also have preservative booster properties.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol: Similar to Pentylene Glycol, it functions as a solvent, humectant, and preservative booster.
  • Propanediol: A natural-derived solvent and humectant, often used as an alternative to propylene glycol, offering a good skin feel.
  • Glycerin: A well-known and effective humectant that draws water into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and soft.
  • Hyaluronic Acid and Derivatives: This formulation includes multiple forms of Hyaluronic Acid, which are powerful humectants capable of holding large amounts of water.
    • Sodium Hyaluronate: A salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, commonly used for its hydrating properties on the skin's surface.
    • Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer: A larger, cross-linked form of Hyaluronic Acid that forms a film on the skin, providing long-lasting hydration and a smoothing effect.
    • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: Smaller fragments of Hyaluronic Acid that can penetrate deeper into the skin for hydration below the surface.
    • Hyaluronic Acid: Refers to the general form, likely including different molecular weights to provide multi-level hydration.
    • Zinc Hyaluronate: A compound combining Zinc and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate, offering hydration along with potential anti-inflammatory and wound-healing benefits.
    • 4D Hyaluronic Acid: A complex of different molecular weights and types of Hyaluronic Acid designed to provide comprehensive hydration across all skin layers.
  • Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans: These are components of the skin's extracellular matrix that help maintain hydration and support skin structure.
  • Xylitol: A sugar alcohol that functions as a humectant, helping the skin retain moisture.

Soothing and Anti-inflammatory Agents

Ingredients that help calm the skin and reduce redness or irritation:

  • Allantoin: Known for its soothing, anti-irritant, and skin-healing properties. It helps reduce irritation and promotes tissue repair.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract and Components: Extracts from the Centella Asiatica plant (Gotu Kola) are well-regarded for their wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging benefits.
    • Centella Asiatica Extract: Provides overall soothing and skin-repairing effects.
    • Madecassoside: A key active compound in Centella Asiatica, highly effective in reducing inflammation, promoting collagen production, and aiding skin healing.
    • Centella Acids (Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid): Other active compounds from Centella Asiatica that contribute to anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and collagen-stimulating effects.

Skin Barrier Support

Ingredients that help strengthen and repair the skin's natural barrier:

  • Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP): A type of ceramide naturally found in the skin, crucial for maintaining the skin barrier, preventing moisture loss, and protecting against irritants.
  • MYRISTOYL/PALMITOYL OXOSTEARAMIDE/ARACHAMIDE MEA: This complex lipid likely functions to replenish and support the skin barrier, similar to ceramides, helping to improve skin hydration and reduce sensitivity.
  • Ceracare™ Liposome-3: A liposomal complex containing ceramides and other lipids designed for enhanced delivery and efficacy in repairing the skin barrier, fighting sensitivity, and providing deep moisturization.

Texture Enhancers and Stabilizers

Ingredients that contribute to the product's texture, stability, and performance:

  • Carbomer: A common gelling agent used to create clear, viscous gel textures in water-based formulations. Different types (like Carbomer 940, Ultrez types) offer varying properties regarding viscosity, electrolyte tolerance, and ease of dispersion.
  • Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that binds to metal ions in the formula, improving stability and preventing discoloration or changes in texture.
  • L-Arginine: An amino acid that can be used to adjust the pH of the formulation, particularly to make it more alkaline.

Other Ingredients

  • Ethylhexylglycerin: Primarily used as a mild preservative and a skin conditioning agent, also contributing to the overall feel of the product. It can also act as a preservative booster.
  • Benzyl Glycol: Likely functions as a solvent and can have antimicrobial properties, contributing to the preservation system.
  • Raspberry Ketone: While sometimes used in fragrances or as a weight-loss supplement ingredient, in cosmetics it might function as a skin conditioning agent or have antioxidant properties, although its primary role here is less clear compared to other ingredients.
  • Panthenol: Also known as Pro-Vitamin B5, it is a humectant and soothing ingredient that helps to moisturize the skin and improve its barrier function.

Overall, this formulation appears to be a highly hydrating and soothing product, likely a serum or gel, designed to replenish moisture, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation, making it suitable for dry, sensitive, or aging skin.