Analysis of Eucerin Sun Anti Age SPF50+ PA+++ Formula and Formulation Questions

ถามโดย: touchzhakornxx เมื่อ: May 26, 2017 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Could you please help analyze the ingredient list of Eucerin Sun Anti Age SPF50+ PA+++ and answer the following questions?

Ingredients: Aqua, Homosalate, Glycerin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Alcohol denat., Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tapioca Starch, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Trisodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

  1. How is the gel-cream base texture created in this sunscreen? Is it formed by using Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, and Glyceryl Stearate?
  2. What percentage of each sunscreen ingredient (Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) is needed to achieve an SPF of approximately 50 PA+++? Some sunscreen ingredients do not have SPF calculation information listed, which is confusing.
  3. Is it possible to create a physical sunscreen with a similar texture and an SPF of approximately 50 PA+++?
  4. What is the purpose of Alcohol denat. in this formula, and is it necessary?
  5. If possible, could you provide a sample formula to create this sunscreen? I currently only have physical sunscreen ingredients available.

คำตอบ

Hello, thank you for asking MySkinRecipes to help analyze the Eucerin Sun Anti Age SPF50+ PA+++ formula. I have reviewed the ingredient list you provided.

Based on the ingredient list, I will analyze and answer each of your questions as follows:

Analysis of Eucerin Sun Anti Age SPF50+ PA+++ Formula

  1. Base Texture Creation: The ingredients you mentioned, including Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, and Glyceryl Stearate, as well as Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (which is a type of Acrylate Crosspolymer), are all key components that help create the texture of this product.

    • Carbomer and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer are gelling agents that increase viscosity and build the structure of the water phase of the product.
    • Xanthan Gum is a thickener and helps stabilize the formula.
    • Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol are emulsifiers and thickeners that help bind the water and oil phases together and contribute to the stability and feel of the cream.
    • Additionally, there is Tapioca Starch that helps absorb oil and provides a dry, comfortable feel on the skin, and Dimethicone, a silicone, that helps improve the texture, making it easy to spread and feel smoother. These ingredients work together to create a lightweight, easy-to-spread gel-cream texture.
  2. Sunscreen Percentages for SPF50 PA+++: This formula uses a combination of chemical sunscreens: Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone), Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S), and Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Ensulizole). Achieving SPF 50+ PA+++ depends on the synergistic effect of all sunscreen actives in the formula; it's not possible to determine the exact percentage of each active directly from the ingredient list alone. Calculating SPF and PA values requires laboratory testing according to international standards. The required percentages vary depending on the specific sunscreen active and other ingredients in the formula that might affect the sunscreen's performance.

  3. Creating a Physical Sunscreen with this Texture and SPF50 PA+++: Creating a physical sunscreen (using Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Dioxide) to have a lightweight gel-like texture and a high SPF of 50+ PA+++ is more challenging than using chemical sunscreens. This is because physical sunscreens are mineral powders that need to be used at relatively high concentrations to achieve the desired SPF/PA values, which often results in a thick, heavy, and potentially whitening product. Although modern technology with coated physical filters and specific formulation techniques can significantly improve the texture, replicating the exact lightweight feel of a chemical sunscreen gel with physical filters at high SPF is a difficult task requiring complex formulation development.

  4. Role of Alcohol denat. in the formula: Alcohol denat. (or Denatured Alcohol) in sunscreen formulas is often included to help dissolve certain chemical sunscreen actives, especially Avobenzone and Ensulizole, which might be difficult to dissolve in other solvents. Additionally, Alcohol helps make the product feel lighter, easier to spread, and faster-drying, contributing to a comfortable, non-greasy feel after application. The presence of Alcohol in this formula is therefore important for the texture and the solubility of some sunscreen actives. Whether it is "necessary" depends on whether you want to achieve the same texture and sunscreen solubility properties. Without Alcohol, alternative solvents or dispersing agents might be needed, potentially affecting the texture and stability of the formula.

  5. Formulation: Providing a complete, ready-to-use formula with exact percentages is something I cannot do directly, as it requires expertise in formulation development, compatibility testing of ingredients, and testing the performance and stability of the final product. However, if you wish to experiment with developing a similar sunscreen formula using chemical sunscreens like in this Eucerin formula, I can help you search for the main ingredients identified in this formula on the My SkinRecipes website so you can study the information and order them for your formulation experiments. Key ingredients you might need include the various chemical sunscreens mentioned, gelling agents/thickeners (such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates Copolymer), emulsifiers (such as Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate), solvents/texture modifiers (such as Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Alcohol denat. if desired), skin conditioning agents (such as Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Licorice Extract), and preservatives (such as Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin).

If you are interested in any specific ingredient and would like me to help you search for it on the My SkinRecipes website, please let me know.

I hope this information is helpful in understanding this Eucerin sunscreen formula and serves as a guide for your future formulation endeavors.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble)
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Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
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Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
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Glyceryl Stearate SE / Glyceryl Monostearate SE (GMS SE)
Glyceryl Stearate SE / Glyceryl Monostearate SE (GMS SE)
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Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture)
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Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)
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Octisalate / Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octyl Salicylate
Octisalate / Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octyl Salicylate
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LipidSoft™ C1215 (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
LipidSoft™ C1215 (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
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Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
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Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
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Homosalate
Homosalate
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Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexylglycerin
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Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
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Ethyl Alcohol (99.9% , 200 Proof, Research/Perfumer Grade)
Ethyl Alcohol (99.9% , 200 Proof, Research/Perfumer Grade)
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Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
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Ethylhexyl Triazone (Octyltriazone, EHT, e.q. Uvinul T150)
Ethylhexyl Triazone (Octyltriazone, EHT, e.q. Uvinul T150)
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Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, PBSA)
Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, PBSA)
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Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (e.q. Eumulgin SG)
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (e.q. Eumulgin SG)
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Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
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Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA)
Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA)
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