Anhydrous Body Butter Formula with Melting, Non-Sticky Texture
Question
I want to make a body butter with a buttery texture.
When applied, I want it to melt into an oil texture. What ingredients can I add so that it feels slippery, absorbs quickly, does not feel sticky, but still leaves the skin dewy?
Ingredients I’m thinking of using:
The formula is anhydrous. I want the texture to be firm but not too hard, just enough that it does not melt while traveling.
Could I ask for advice on how much of each ingredient I should use?
Answer
Suggested starting point for an anhydrous body butter that is firm enough for travel, melts on skin, feels smoother and less greasy:
| Ingredient | % | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Shea Butter (Refined, Deodorised) | 22.0 | Main butter, moisturising body |
| Cocoa Butter Replacer (Quick-Melt) | 17.0 | Firmness and body; use as cocoa-butter-type structure |
| Melting Butter Medium | 8.0 | Skin-melting feel around body temperature |
| Kokum Butter | 6.0 | Helps firmness with less greasy drag |
| Jojoba Oil | 8.0 | Emollient oil with good skin feel |
| Tea/Camellia Seed Oil | 8.0 | Medium-weight nourishing oil |
| Marula Oil | 6.0 | Lightweight moisturising oil |
| LipidSoft Dry II | 15.0 | Dry-touch slip, reduces greasy feel |
| Hexyl Laurate | 4.0 | Spreadability and light slip |
| MatteSilica 10 | 3.0 | Powdery slip, reduces oily/tacky afterfeel |
| Vitamin E | 0.7 | Oil-phase antioxidant |
| LipX-Centella Oil (CICA Oil) | 1.0 | Oil-soluble cica active |
| Coenzyme Q10 | 0.1 | Oil-soluble antioxidant active |
| Bakuchiol | 0.3 | Oil-soluble anti-aging active |
| Perfect-C / VC-IP | 0.9 | Oil-soluble vitamin C active |
| Total | 100.0 |
Notes for adjusting texture:
- If it melts too easily during travel, increase Kokum Butter or Cocoa Butter Replacer by 2-3% and reduce liquid oils by the same amount.
- If it feels too waxy/hard, reduce Kokum Butter or Cocoa Butter Replacer by 2-3% and increase LipidSoft Dry II or jojoba oil.
- If it is still too oily, increase MatteSilica 10 to 4-5% and reduce liquid oils. Do not add too much powder at first because it can make the feel dry or draggy.
- If more heat resistance is needed, Microcrystalline Wax can be tested at about 1-2%, replacing part of the liquid oils. Use cautiously because too much wax can reduce the desired melting-butter feel.
Processing:
- Heat and melt the butters/structuring phase gently: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter Replacer, Melting Butter Medium, Kokum Butter. Use only enough heat to melt; avoid prolonged heating.
- Add jojoba oil, camellia oil, marula oil, LipidSoft Dry II, and Hexyl Laurate; mix until uniform.
- Cool below about 60°C before adding CoQ10. Add Bakuchiol, VC-IP, Vitamin E, and CICA Oil during cool-down with minimal heat exposure.
- Disperse MatteSilica well at the final stage while mixing so there are no powder lumps.
- Pour into jars or sticks and let set fully. Test after 24 hours because anhydrous butters often continue to crystallize and firm up.
Because this is an anhydrous formula, a preservative is usually not required, but production and packaging should avoid water contamination. For travel stability, test by leaving the finished sample at the highest expected travel temperature for several hours and adjust the butter/wax/liquid-oil balance from there.