Anti-Aging Cream Formulation: Ingredient Compatibility, Texture, and Stability

ถามโดย: uschara.tanda เมื่อ: July 03, 2023 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am creating an anti-aging and moisturizing cream using a base cream and adding various active ingredients like peptides (Argireline, Copper, Pep-Coll, Lift-Now), humectants, DMAE, etc. Will this formulation effectively provide moisture and reduce wrinkles? Will the resulting cream texture be sticky? Should any ingredients be removed, especially Lift-Now, to achieve visible results quickly? Is the base cream compatible with these added ingredients, and what are the key considerations for mixing and ensuring stability?

คำตอบ

Formulation Analysis

Based on the ingredients you've included, this formulation is designed to address both moisturizing and wrinkle reduction with a potent mix of active ingredients.

1. Moisture and Wrinkle Reduction:

  • Moisture: Ingredients like Propanediol, X-Glycerin, HydroAlgae™, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ectoine, and Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) are all excellent humectants and moisturizers. They work together to draw and retain moisture in the skin at different levels, providing significant hydration. HydroAlgae™ is particularly noted for long-lasting moisture.
  • Wrinkle Reduction: You have included several powerful anti-wrinkle actives: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), Copper Peptide, Pep®-Coll, Lift-Now™, and DMAE.
    • Pep®-Coll stimulates collagen production for long-term wrinkle reduction.
    • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) helps reduce expression wrinkles by targeting muscle contractions.
    • Copper Peptide aids in skin repair and wrinkle reduction.
    • DMAE provides skin tightening and antioxidant benefits.
    • Lift-Now™ offers an immediate, temporary lifting and wrinkle-smoothing effect.

This combination targets wrinkles through multiple pathways, making it a comprehensive anti-aging formula.

2. Texture (Stickiness):

The texture will depend heavily on the base cream itself. However, the inclusion of multiple humectants (Propanediol, X-Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ectoine, Hyaluronic Acid) at a combined significant percentage can contribute to a slightly tacky or sticky feel. DMAE, especially at higher concentrations (though 3% is the recommended level), can also add to a potentially "icky" feel. Lift-Now™ creates a temporary film for tightening, which might feel noticeable but is described as allowing makeup to apply smoothly. It's difficult to predict the exact level of stickiness without testing the final product, but it's possible it may not have a completely dry finish due to the humectant load.

3. Ingredient Removal / Lift-Now™:

Your goal is to see clear results quickly, and adding Lift-Now™ is appropriate for this. Lift-Now™ provides immediate, temporary skin tightening and wrinkle reduction, which will give you visible results from the first application. The product description for Lift-Now™ explicitly suggests using it with long-term peptides like Pep®-Coll to achieve both instant and lasting effects.

Your formulation contains a high concentration of various potent actives. While this combination is designed for maximum anti-wrinkle efficacy, using many actives together, even within their recommended ranges, can increase the overall potential for skin sensitivity or irritation, especially for those with delicate skin. There isn't one specific ingredient that must be removed for incompatibility at these percentages, but it is a very active formula. If you experience any irritation, you might consider reducing the concentration of some actives or removing one or two of the less critical ones for your primary goals (moisture, quick and long-term wrinkle reduction). However, for maximum anti-wrinkle impact, the current selection is comprehensive.

4. Base Compatibility:

The Absolue Soft Cream Base is designed to be compatible with a wide range of active ingredients. Most of your added ingredients are water-soluble and should incorporate well into the water phase of the cream base. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) acts as a penetration enhancer and is compatible with many cosmetic ingredients, including silicones found in the base.

Important Considerations for Mixing:

  • Several ingredients (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Peptide, Pep®-Coll, HydroAlgae™, Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate) must be added at temperatures below 40°C to maintain their stability and efficacy. Ensure you add these during the cooling phase of your cream making process.
  • Copper Peptide requires the final formula pH to be between 4.5-7.4 for stability. Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate requires a pH between 3.5-8.0. You will need to check the pH of your final formulation after adding all ingredients to ensure it falls within these ranges, especially for Copper Peptide.

In summary, your formulation is well-equipped to provide both moisture and significant anti-wrinkle benefits, including quick visible results from Lift-Now™. Pay close attention to mixing temperatures and final pH to ensure the stability and effectiveness of the active ingredients, and be mindful of the potential for a slightly sticky texture or irritation due to the high concentration of actives.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
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Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
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Lift-Now™
Lift-Now™
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DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
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Methyl Gluceth-20
Methyl Gluceth-20
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Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
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Propanediol (1,3-Propanediol) (e.q. Zemea)
Propanediol (1,3-Propanediol) (e.q. Zemea)
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X-Glycerin (Polyglycerin-10)
X-Glycerin (Polyglycerin-10)
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Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
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HydroAlgae™
HydroAlgae™
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Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate
Ultrasomes Micrococcus Lysate
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Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome)
Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome)
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