Azelaic Acid vs Salicylic Acid (BHA) for Clogged Pores & Ingredient Compatibility

Asked by: nuulek09 On: September 23, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding the use of Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid (BHA) for clogged pores and their compatibility with other skincare ingredients.

  1. When using an Azelaic Acid toner, can I apply other nourishing creams immediately after?
  2. How does Azelaic Acid compare to Salicylic Acid (BHA) in terms of effectiveness for treating clogged pores?
  3. If I use Salicylic Acid, how should I apply other products afterward? Should I wait, and does the type of Salicylic Acid (Timed-release vs. regular) affect the waiting time?
  4. Can I add the following ingredients to a BHA formulation, and are they compatible:
    • Zinc PCA
    • Natural Betaine
    • Glycerin
    • Hyaluronic Acid

Additionally, I would like to confirm if Azelaic Acid is compatible with Zinc PCA or if they should not be used together in the same formulation.

Answer

Based on the conversation:

Regarding the use of Azelaic acid toner, you can apply other nourishing creams immediately after, as Azelaic acid is not highly acidic or alkaline (usually pH 5-6.5 when properly formulated).

The conversation also compares Azelaic acid and Salicylic acid (BHA) for treating clogged pores. Generally, Salicylic acid is considered more effective for dissolving clogged pores than Azelaic acid, although individual results may vary. Azelaic acid also has other benefits, such as helping to brighten the skin.

If you choose to use Salicylic acid:

  • With Salicylic acid timed-release, you can apply other creams shortly after (wait about 3-5 minutes for it to absorb/dry). This type is less irritating as the pH is not very low.
  • With regular Salicylic acid, it's recommended to wait about 30 minutes before applying other products to avoid the acidity affecting them.

The discussion also touched upon adding ingredients to a BHA (Salicylic acid) formulation. Zinc PCA and Natural Betaine can generally be added. Glycerin is less recommended due to potential issues with liposomes (in timed-release) and its low efficacy for moisturization, especially for oily skin. Hyaluronic acid should not be mixed with Timed-release BHA.

Important note: Azelaic Acid is incompatible with Zinc PCA. You should choose one or the other, not use them together in the same formulation.