Base Recommendation for Foundation Masterbatches using WaterMix™ Colors

Question

Hello, I am looking to create foundation masterbatches (Red, Yellow, Blue, and White) for my thesis project. I plan to use WaterMix™ liquid colors (White Titanium Dioxide, Bright Yellow CI 11680, Bright Red CI 12490, Blue CI 74160) mixed with a plain cream or lotion base (clear or white, not a pre-tinted foundation base). The requirements are as follows:

Stability: High tolerance for large amounts of WaterMix™ without emulsion separation (Good emulsion stability).
Skin-feel: Provides a smooth slip and good adhesion, similar to a liquid/cream foundation, without the stickiness of a gel.
Process: Must be compatible with a Cold process (no heat required).

Please recommend a suitable base, any necessary thickeners or water-resistant agents, and a carrier for compatibility with standard foundation formulations. Additionally, please advise if I should use water during mixing or if they can be mixed directly into the base. Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

To create foundation masterbatches (Red, Yellow, Blue, White) using WaterMix™ liquid colors with a high pigment load, stability, and a professional liquid foundation feel, I recommend the following components and approach:

1. Recommended Base

Body Paint (White Base): This is the most suitable base for your requirements. It is specifically designed to carry a high concentration of pigments without breaking the emulsion. It provides a creamy texture that is easy to blend, supports cold processing, and is stable even when adding significant amounts of water-based dispersions like WaterMix™.

2. Enhancing Skin-feel and Slip (Foundation-like texture)

To transform a standard cream base into something that feels like a high-end liquid foundation (smooth, non-greasy, and excellent slip), you can add:

Ethyl Trisiloxane: A volatile silicone that provides a very light, smooth feel and helps the foundation "set" on the skin quickly, similar to premium liquid foundations.
Silicone Shine Max15™: Adds a luxurious slip and smoothness to the formula, reducing any drag during application.

3. Adhesion and Water Resistance

Since WaterMix™ is water-based, adding a water-compatible film former is essential for long-wear and water resistance:

Flex Film (Water Base): This film former is designed for water-based systems. It helps the pigment adhere to the skin and provides water-resistant properties once dry.

4. Adjusting Viscosity (If needed)

If the addition of a large amount of WaterMix™ makes the base too thin, you can increase the viscosity using a cold-process thickener:

HPMC ColdMix™: A thickener that can be easily dispersed in a cold process to stabilize and thicken the emulsion.

Recommended Masterbatch Formulation Guide

Base (Body Paint White Base): 70-80%
WaterMix™ Color: 10-20% (Adjust based on desired intensity)
Ethyl Trisiloxane: 3-5% (For slip and quick set)
Flex Film (Water Base): 2-5% (For adhesion and water resistance)

Mixing Instructions (Cold Process)

Prepare the Body Paint (White Base) in a mixing container.
Slowly add the WaterMix™ color while stirring continuously until the color is uniform.
Add Ethyl Trisiloxane and Silicone Shine Max15™ to improve the skin-feel.
Add Flex Film for water resistance and stir well.
If the mixture is too thin, gradually add HPMC ColdMix™ while stirring until the desired thickness is achieved.