Basic Soft Cleansing Foam Formula

Question

Could you please provide a recommended starting formula for a cleansing foam? I am looking to create a facial cleansing foam with a soft foam texture. I have attached a list of ingredients from a product whose texture I like as a guideline. I only need a basic starting formula and will adjust the active ingredients myself. The ingredient list from the preferred example is as follows:

Water
Myristic Acid
Glycerin
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Glycol Distearate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Potassium Hydroxide
Lauric Acid
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Propylene Glycol
Sodium PCA
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance
Hydrolyzed Honey
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
DMDM Hydantoin
Glycoproteins
PEG-90M
Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Carrot Root Extract
Glycine Max Soybean Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Rice Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
EDTA
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Evening Primrose Flower Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Dandelion Extract
ThymusQuinquecostatus Extract
Tropaeolum Majus Flower Extract

Thank you very much.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Basic Cleansing Foam Starting Formula

Here is a basic starting formula for a soft cleansing foam, based on the types of ingredients you provided. You can adjust the percentages and add your desired active ingredients to this base.

Ingredients:

Water Phase:
- Water: 40-60%
- Glycerin: 5-10%
- Propylene Glycol: 2-5%
- Butylene Glycol: 2-5%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.1-0.2%
Fatty Acid Phase:
- Myristic Acid: 10-15%
- Palmitic Acid: 3-8%
- Stearic Acid: 3-8%
- Lauric Acid: 5-10%
- Glycol Distearate: 1-3%
Neutralization:
- Potassium Hydroxide (adjust to neutralize fatty acids and achieve desired pH, typically 1-3% of a 20-30% solution)
Surfactant Phase:
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10-20%
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (or similar mild anionic surfactant): 5-15%
- Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate: 1-5%
Texture/Feel Enhancer:
- PEG-45M (or similar PEG): 0.1-0.5%
Other (add as desired):
- Fragrance: 0.1-0.5%
- Preservative: 0.5-1.5%
- Active Ingredients (Extracts, etc.): As per supplier recommendations

Instructions:

Combine Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, and Disodium EDTA in a beaker and heat to 70-75°C.
In a separate beaker, combine Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, and Glycol Distearate. Heat to 70-75°C until fully melted.
Slowly add the melted fatty acid phase to the heated water phase while stirring constantly.
In a separate container, prepare the Potassium Hydroxide solution by dissolving Potassium Hydroxide in a small amount of water. Slowly add this solution to the mixture from step 3 while stirring. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens and saponification occurs.
Cool the mixture to below 40°C.
Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate, and PEG-45M. Stir gently to avoid excessive foaming.
Add Fragrance, Preservative, and any other desired active ingredients. Stir until homogenous.
Adjust pH if necessary (typically to 5.5-6.5 for facial cleansers).

This formula provides a creamy base that generates soft foam. Remember to perform stability testing on your final formulation with added actives.