Basic Soft Cleansing Foam Formula

Asked by: wassana.dp On: October 24, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

Could you please provide a recommended starting formula for a cleansing foam? I am looking to create a facial cleansing foam with a soft foam texture. I have attached a list of ingredients from a product whose texture I like as a guideline. I only need a basic starting formula and will adjust the active ingredients myself. The ingredient list from the preferred example is as follows:

  • Water
  • Myristic Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Palmitic Acid
  • Stearic Acid
  • Glycol Distearate
  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine
  • Potassium Hydroxide
  • Lauric Acid
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate
  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
  • Propylene Glycol
  • Sodium PCA
  • Butylene Glycol
  • Fragrance
  • Hydrolyzed Honey
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
  • DMDM Hydantoin
  • Glycoproteins
  • PEG-90M
  • Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate
  • Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
  • Daucus Carota Sativa Carrot Root Extract
  • Glycine Max Soybean Seed Extract
  • Oryza Sativa Rice Extract
  • Panax Ginseng Root Extract
  • EDTA
  • Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
  • Oenothera Biennis Evening Primrose Flower Extract
  • Taraxacum Officinale Dandelion Extract
  • ThymusQuinquecostatus Extract
  • Tropaeolum Majus Flower Extract

Thank you very much.

Answer

Basic Cleansing Foam Starting Formula

Here is a basic starting formula for a soft cleansing foam, based on the types of ingredients you provided. You can adjust the percentages and add your desired active ingredients to this base.

Ingredients:

  • Water Phase:

    • Water: 40-60%
    • Glycerin: 5-10%
    • Propylene Glycol: 2-5%
    • Butylene Glycol: 2-5%
    • Disodium EDTA: 0.1-0.2%

  • Fatty Acid Phase:

    • Myristic Acid: 10-15%
    • Palmitic Acid: 3-8%
    • Stearic Acid: 3-8%
    • Lauric Acid: 5-10%
    • Glycol Distearate: 1-3%

  • Neutralization:

    • Potassium Hydroxide (adjust to neutralize fatty acids and achieve desired pH, typically 1-3% of a 20-30% solution)

  • Surfactant Phase:

    • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10-20%
    • Sodium Laureth Sulfate (or similar mild anionic surfactant): 5-15%
    • Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate: 1-5%

  • Texture/Feel Enhancer:

    • PEG-45M (or similar PEG): 0.1-0.5%

  • Other (add as desired):

    • Fragrance: 0.1-0.5%
    • Preservative: 0.5-1.5%
    • Active Ingredients (Extracts, etc.): As per supplier recommendations

Instructions:

  1. Combine Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, and Disodium EDTA in a beaker and heat to 70-75°C.
  2. In a separate beaker, combine Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, and Glycol Distearate. Heat to 70-75°C until fully melted.
  3. Slowly add the melted fatty acid phase to the heated water phase while stirring constantly.
  4. In a separate container, prepare the Potassium Hydroxide solution by dissolving Potassium Hydroxide in a small amount of water. Slowly add this solution to the mixture from step 3 while stirring. Continue stirring until the mixture thickens and saponification occurs.
  5. Cool the mixture to below 40°C.
  6. Add Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate, and PEG-45M. Stir gently to avoid excessive foaming.
  7. Add Fragrance, Preservative, and any other desired active ingredients. Stir until homogenous.
  8. Adjust pH if necessary (typically to 5.5-6.5 for facial cleansers).

This formula provides a creamy base that generates soft foam. Remember to perform stability testing on your final formulation with added actives.

Answer Update
Updated Review: May 2026

This section was added after reviewing the original answer against current product availability and formulation knowledge at the stated point in time.

Update 2026-05-24 — pH correction for this type of formula: The pH 5.5-6.5 guidance in the original answer should be understood as applying to a non-soap/syndet facial cleanser, not to a true fatty-acid/KOH cream foam. If the formula uses Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid and/or Lauric Acid neutralized with Potassium Hydroxide, it normally needs to remain alkaline, commonly around pH 8.5-10, so the fatty acids stay in soap form and the cream-foam structure remains stable.

Do not simply acidify this soap-based system down to pH 5.5-6.5. Doing so can convert part of the soap back to free fatty acids, which may cause abnormal thickening, graininess, precipitation, lower foam, weaker cleansing or instability. If the target is a gentler skin-friendly cleanser at pH 5.5-6.5, redesign the surfactant system as a non-soap/syndet cleanser instead, for example using suitable amino-acid surfactants, taurate, sulfosuccinate, betaine/amphoteric surfactants or a blended syndet base such as AminoWash™, Creamy Foamer™, Gluta-Clean™, SulFoam™, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Laura-Foam-50™, Sulfate Free Shampoo Base or Sulfate-Free Foaming Base.

For either route, select actives, extracts, fragrance and preservative according to the final pH and heat tolerance; for example, DMDM Hydantoin should be checked against its usable pH range. Run stability, viscosity, foam, heat/freeze-thaw and preservative challenge testing before production.

Tags

Facial Cleanser Foaming Texture Cosmetic Formulation Formulation Examples