Body Cream Formulation Guidance

Hello! It's great you're making your own body cream. Let's go through your questions about the ingredients and formulation process.

Understanding Percentages and Measurement

In cosmetic formulation, percentages are always measured by weight (grams), not volume. To make a cream, you will need an accurate scale to weigh each ingredient. For example, if you want to make 100 grams of cream and an ingredient is used at 5%, you would add 5 grams of that ingredient.

Water Content

The amount of water (or the water phase) in your formula is typically the balance needed to reach 100%. You add up the percentages (by weight) of all your other ingredients (oils, emulsifiers, thickeners, active ingredients, preservatives, fragrance, color) and subtract that total from 100%. The remaining percentage is the amount of water you will need.

Your Ingredient List

Your list includes many beneficial ingredients for a body cream. It's not necessarily "too many," but the key is to use each ingredient at an effective concentration and ensure they are compatible. Here's a look at some of the ingredients you listed and their typical roles and usage rates based on product information:

• WATER: The main solvent and base of your cream.
• PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (Mineral Oil): An emollient that helps moisturize and soften the skin. It can be used from 1% up to 100% (though typically much lower in a cream). We have both Light and Heavy types available.
• STEARIC ACID: A fatty acid used as a thickener and stabilizer in creams. Typical usage is 1-20%.
• NIACINAMIDE (VITAMIN B3): Offers multiple benefits like reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, redness, and oiliness, while strengthening the skin barrier. Products like Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) can be used at 1-10% (recommended 5%, some types up to 10%).
• CETEARETH-20: An emulsifier that helps mix oil and water. Typical usage is 0.5-30%.
• ALOE BARBADENSIS EXTRACT (Aloe Vera Extract): Known for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties. Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™) can be used at 1-10%.
• PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT (Ginseng Extract): Can offer anti-aging, elasticity, whitening, and anti-inflammatory benefits. RareGinseng®-GF2 (Natural Retinol Replacement) is a type of Ginseng extract used at 0.1-5% (recommended 3%).
• CURCUMA LONGA ROOT EXTRACT (Turmeric Extract): Often used for its color and potential antioxidant/anti-inflammatory properties. Turmeric Extract Curcumin Yellow Color (Natural Colorant) is a water-soluble colorant used at 0.1-1.0%.
• MORUS ALBA BARK EXTRACT (Mulberry Extract): Often used for skin brightening properties.
• POMEGRANATE EXTRACT: Can refer to different components. Pomegranate Sterols are emollients (1-100%, recommended 1-5%) and Pomegranate Seed Oil is an oil rich in antioxidants (1-100%).
• กูลต้า (Glutathione): An antioxidant and skin whitening agent. Glutathione (L-Glutathione) (Extrasol) can be used at 1-3% (2% for whitening).
• FRAGRANCE: For scent, usage varies depending on the specific fragrance.
• ALLANTOIN: Helps reduce irritation and promotes skin healing. Allantoin is typically used at 0.1-2.0% (recommended 0.5% due to solubility).
• TRIETHANOLAMINE: Used to adjust the pH of the formula. Triethanolamine 99% is used at 0.1-2.5%.
• DMDM HYDANTOIN: A preservative to prevent microbial growth. DMDM Hydantoin is used at 0.1-0.6%.
• CI 15985: A synthetic colorant (Yellow 6). FD&C Yellow No.6 (CI15985) (Water-Soluble) is used in very small quantities to achieve the desired color.

To determine the exact percentage for each active ingredient (like Niacinamide, extracts, Glutathione, Allantoin), you should refer to the supplier's recommended usage rate for the specific product you purchase and decide on the desired potency for your cream.

Adding Coconut Oil

Adding coconut oil is optional. Since you already have Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) which is an emollient, coconut oil would serve a similar purpose of adding moisture and richness. If you like the feel and properties of coconut oil, you can include it in your oil phase, adjusting the amount of Paraffinum Liquidum or other oils accordingly.

Achieving a Buttery Texture (Cutina HVG vs. Cream Makers)

You asked about using Cutina HVG (Glyceryl Stearate SE) for a buttery texture. While Cutina HVG is an emulsifier and can contribute to thickness, the staff's suggestion of using a dedicated "Cream Maker" like Butter Cream Maker™ is an excellent approach specifically designed to create a solid, buttery texture, often without needing high heat or complex procedures. Using Butter Cream Maker™ at a higher rate (e.g., 5-6%) along with a fatty alcohol like Cetyl Alcohol (as mentioned in the product description) is recommended for achieving a butter-like consistency. This might be a more straightforward way to get the texture you want compared to relying solely on ingredients like Stearic Acid and Ceteareth-20, or adding Cutina HVG.

In summary, focus on using a suitable emulsifier/thickener system like Butter Cream Maker™ to get your desired texture, measure all ingredients by weight, calculate water as the balance, and use your active ingredients at recommended rates based on their specific product information.