Body Exfoliation Formula with Glycolic Acid: Ingredient Compatibility and pH Issues

Asked by: jitra.lim On: March 10, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a body exfoliation formula to reduce dark spots with the following ingredients:

  • Glycolic Acid (100%) at 10%
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Aloe Vera Extract
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer)
  • Triethanolamine (for pH adjustment)

I understand that Centella Asiatica Extract works best at pH 5.5-7, while Glycolic Acid needs a low pH (below 4) for exfoliation. Are these two ingredients compatible in the same formula at these concentrations? What other formulation considerations should I be aware of regarding ingredient compatibility, thickener performance (Pro Polymer), and overall pH adjustment for stability and efficacy?

Answer

Regarding your proposed body exfoliation formula for reducing dark spots:

Based on the feedback, your formula has a few points to consider:

  • Centella Asiatica Extract: You are correct that Centella Asiatica Extract works best at a pH of 5.5-7. Since Glycolic Acid requires a pH below 4 to be effective for exfoliation, these two ingredients are not compatible in the same formula at these concentrations. Therefore, Centella Asiatica Extract should be excluded from this AHA formula.
  • Pro Polymer: Glycolic Acid can reduce the viscosity of the gel. It is recommended to increase the Pro Polymer concentration to at least 1.5% to achieve the desired texture.
  • pH Adjustment: At 10% concentration, Glycolic Acid will result in a very low pH (likely below 3.5). While AHA needs a low pH for efficacy, a pH below 3.5 can degrade other ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract. It is necessary to adjust the pH upwards to at least 3.5 using a base like Triethanolamine to ensure stability and compatibility of ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract, while still keeping the pH low enough for AHA activity.
  • Recommendation for Beginners: For those new to formulating, it is recommended to start with a simpler formula containing just Glycolic Acid (10%), Pro Polymer (adjusted amount), and water. Once comfortable, other compatible ingredients like Aloe Vera Extract and Vitamin B3 can be added, ensuring pH adjustments are made accordingly.

The staff's advice confirms your understanding regarding the pH issue with Centella and provides necessary adjustments for Pro Polymer and overall pH.

Relevant products discussed:

  • Glycolic Acid (100%)
  • Aloe Vera Extract
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer)
  • Triethanolamine (for pH adjustment)