Body Serum Formulation for Skin Brightening - Review and Advice

Asked by: thanyarat5822301003 On: November 12, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a body serum with the goal of skin brightening. I would like to request a review and advice on the following formulation:

  • GlucoBright 4%
  • B3 3%
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) 0.1%
  • Alpha Arbutin 2%
  • Albumin 0.5%
  • MOIST72 2%
  • Dimethyl 3%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid 8%
  • Light Cream Maker 1%
  • Satin Cream Maker 1%

Answer

Subject: Review and Advice for Body Serum Formulation

Thank you for sharing your body serum formulation aiming for skin brightening. Here is a review and some advice:

Strengths of the Formulation:

  • Excellent Selection of Brightening Agents: You have chosen a powerful combination of ingredients known for their skin brightening properties, including N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright), Niacinamide (B3), Licorice Extract (Glabridin), and Alpha Arbutin. These ingredients work through different mechanisms to target hyperpigmentation and promote a more even skin tone. The concentrations used (4% NAG, 3% B3, 0.1% Glabridin 90%, 2% Alpha Arbutin) are generally effective and within recommended usage ranges.
  • Good Hydration Support: The inclusion of MOIST72 and Double Hyaluron Liquid will help keep the skin hydrated, which is beneficial for overall skin health and appearance, complementing the brightening effects.

Points for Consideration and Improvement:

  • Missing Preservative: This is the most critical omission. Any water-based formulation must contain a broad-spectrum preservative system to prevent bacterial, fungal, and mold growth. Without a preservative, the serum can become contaminated very quickly, posing a health risk and spoiling the product. Please add a suitable preservative according to the supplier's recommended usage rate.
  • Missing pH Adjustment: The pH of the final formulation needs to be adjusted to ensure the stability and optimal efficacy of the active ingredients and to be compatible with the skin's natural pH. The ideal pH range for this combination of ingredients is generally between 4.5 and 6.0. You will need a pH meter or pH strips to check and adjust the pH using an acid (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid solution) or a base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution).
  • "Dimethyl" Ingredient: The ingredient listed as "Dimethyl" is unclear. If this refers to Dimethyl Isosorbide, it acts as a solvent and penetration enhancer, which would be beneficial for delivering the active ingredients. Please confirm the exact name of this ingredient.
  • Texture Makers: Using 1% Light Cream Maker and 1% Satin Cream Maker (2% total) might result in a texture closer to a light lotion or fluid cream rather than a typical thin serum, depending on the specific products. If you desire a thinner serum consistency, you might need to adjust the percentage or type of thickener/emulsifier.
  • Albumin: Albumin is typically used for temporary skin tightening/film-forming effects, often in masks. Its contribution to a body serum focused on brightening is less significant. You could potentially omit this ingredient without negatively impacting the brightening goal, simplifying the formulation.
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid Concentration: The effectiveness of 8% Double Hyaluron Liquid depends on the actual concentration of Hyaluronic Acid powder in that liquid product. Ensure the amount provides sufficient hydration as intended.

Recommendations:

  1. Add a Preservative: Select a suitable broad-spectrum preservative and add it at the recommended concentration.
  2. Adjust pH: Measure and adjust the final pH of the serum to a range between 4.5 and 6.0 for optimal stability and skin compatibility.
  3. Clarify "Dimethyl": Confirm the exact name and purpose of the "Dimethyl" ingredient. If it's Dimethyl Isosorbide, it's a good addition.
  4. Consider Texture: If a thinner serum is desired, evaluate if the amount/type of texture makers needs adjustment.
  5. Consider Omitting Albumin: Unless a specific film-forming effect is desired, Albumin could potentially be removed.
  6. Patch Test: Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the product to the entire body to check for any irritation or adverse reactions.

Overall, this formulation has strong potential for skin brightening due to the excellent choice of active ingredients. Addressing the missing preservative and pH adjustment are crucial steps for safety and effectiveness.