Brightening Serum Formula Adjustment for Texture

Asked by: thnptbu On: May 28, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like advice on adjusting the ingredient list for a Brightening Serum. The concept is:

  1. It should work to reduce melanin production and existing pigmentation through various mechanisms (at least 2 mechanisms).
  2. The serum texture should be easy to spread, absorb relatively quickly, not be too thick like a gel or cream (it should be pourable but not watery).
  3. It should provide hydration and reduce skin irritation to a certain extent (in my formula, I chose [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/123-calendula-extract-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94.html:394qwfiy]Calendula Extract[/url:394qwfiy] (Water Soluble) 5%).

Here is the ingredient list:

  1. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/493-activated-resorcinol-4-butyl-resorcinol.html:394qwfiy]Activated Resorcinol[/url:394qwfiy]™ 1%
  2. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:394qwfiy]Disodium EDTA[/url:394qwfiy] 0.2%
  3. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/898-sym-white-phenylethyl-resorcinol.html:394qwfiy]Phenylethyl Resorcinol[/url:394qwfiy] (eq. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/898-sym-white-phenylethyl-resorcinol.html:394qwfiy]Sym-White™[/url:394qwfiy]) 0.5%
  4. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/699-sepiwhite-msh-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine.html:394qwfiy]MSH White™[/url:394qwfiy] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99/699-sepiwhite-msh-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine.html:394qwfiy]Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine[/url:394qwfiy]) 2%
  5. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1213-4msk-potassium-methoxysalicylate.html:394qwfiy]4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)[/url:394qwfiy] 2%
  6. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1140-tranexamic-acid-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%94.html:394qwfiy]Tranexamic Acid[/url:394qwfiy] 3%
  7. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1502-licorice-extract-glabridin-90.html:394qwfiy]Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)[/url:394qwfiy] 0.5%
  8. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/886-1-2-hexanediol.html:394qwfiy]1,2-Hexanediol[/url:394qwfiy] (Super-Purified, Odorless) 5%
  9. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99/742-tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane-tetrahydrocurcuminoids.html:394qwfiy]WhiteCumin™[/url:394qwfiy] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99/742-tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane-tetrahydrocurcuminoids.html:394qwfiy]Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane[/url:394qwfiy]) 0.3%
  10. [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/marine-oil-%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5/7078-algae-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5-laminaria-digitata-extract.html:394qwfiy]Algae Oil[/url:394qwfiy] น้ำมันสาหร่ายใต้ทะเล Laminaria Digitata Extract 10%
  11. [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/marine-oil-%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B0%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5/7079-pure-caviar-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%82%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C.html:394qwfiy]Pure Caviar Oil น้ำมันไข่ปลาคาเวียร์[/url:394qwfiy] 10%
  12. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/141-light-cream-maker-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A1.html:394qwfiy]Light Cream Maker™[/url:394qwfiy] 1%
  13. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/123-calendula-extract-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94.html:394qwfiy]Calendula Extract[/url:394qwfiy] (Water Soluble) 5%
  14. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:394qwfiy]Purified Water[/url:394qwfiy] 60%

Thank you in advance for your advice.

Answer

Subject: Advice on adjusting Brightening Serum formula

Thank you for providing your Brightening Serum formula and requirements.

Based on your concept:

  1. Multiple Whitening Mechanisms: Your selection of ingredients is excellent and covers a wide range of mechanisms to reduce melanin production and existing pigmentation. Ingredients like Activated Resorcinol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, 4MSK, Licorice Extract, and WhiteCumin target tyrosinase enzyme activity. MSH White works on the signaling pathway, while 4MSK also helps with melanin excretion, and Tranexamic Acid addresses inflammation-induced pigmentation. This combination effectively meets your requirement for multiple mechanisms.
  2. Moisture and Soothing: The inclusion of Calendula Extract at 5% is a good choice for providing soothing and anti-irritant benefits. The oils also contribute to skin conditioning.

However, regarding the texture requirement (light, fast-absorbing serum, pourable but not watery), the current formula with a total of 20% oil (Algae Oil 10% + Pure Caviar Oil 10%) combined with 1% Light Cream Maker™ is likely to result in a texture closer to a light cream or lotion rather than a serum.

To achieve the desired light serum texture, I recommend the following adjustments:

  • Reduce the Oil Phase: Significantly decrease the total percentage of Algae Oil and Pure Caviar Oil. For a light serum, the total oil phase is typically much lower, often in the range of 2-5%. You could try reducing both oils to, for example, 1-2% each, totaling 2-4%.
  • Adjust Emulsification: With a reduced oil phase, the amount or type of emulsifier might need adjustment. 1% Light Cream Maker™ might still create too much viscosity for a very light serum with only 2-4% oil. You may need to reduce the Light Cream Maker™ percentage or explore other emulsifiers or solubilizers specifically designed for low-viscosity serum emulsions or solubilizing small amounts of oil in water.
  • Consider Additional Humectants: If you significantly reduce the oil content, you might want to add a humectant like Glycerin (e.g., 2-5%) or Panthenol (e.g., 1-2%) to help maintain the moisturizing properties of the serum.
  • Adjust Water Phase: Increase the percentage of purified water to balance the formula after reducing oils and potentially adjusting other ingredients.

Example Adjustment (Illustrative - requires testing):

  • Activated Resorcinol™: 1%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Phenylethyl Resorcinol: 0.5%
  • MSH White™: 2%
  • 4MSK: 2%
  • Tranexamic Acid: 3%
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%): 0.5%
  • 1,2-Hexanediol: 5%
  • WhiteCumin™: 0.3%
  • Algae Oil: 1-2% (Reduce significantly)
  • Pure Caviar Oil: 1-2% (Reduce significantly)
  • Light Cream Maker™: Adjust based on testing with reduced oil phase (potentially lower than 1% or use a different system)
  • Calendula Extract: 5%
  • Glycerin or Panthenol: 2-5% (Optional, for added hydration)
  • Purified Water: Balance to 100%

Please note that formulation is an iterative process, and testing is crucial to achieve the desired texture, stability, and performance. Adjusting the percentages of oils and the emulsifier will be key to getting the serum consistency right.

Related Products Mentioned

Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Light Cream Maker™
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
Cosmetics
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)
WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane)
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)
Algae Oil น้ำมันสาหร่ายใต้ทะเล Laminaria Digitata Extract
Pure Caviar Oil น้ำมันไข่ปลาคาเวียร์

Tags

Formula Review Serum Skin Brightening Texture Texture Modification