Choosing a Clear Base and Carrier for Foundation Color Matching with WaterMix Colors

Question

We are currently studying and experimenting with cosmetic foundation color matching and are interested in using four items from the WaterMix Liquid Color group:

WaterMix Blue (CI 74160)
WaterMix Bright Red (CI 12490)
WaterMix Bright Yellow (CI 11680)
WaterMix White (Titanium Dioxide)

Our objective is to mix these four water-based colors with a "Clear Base" to prepare primary color stocks for color matching and calculating proportions. I would like to ask for advice on the following:

Direct Mixing: Can both Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base (water-based gel) and Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) (silicone-based serum) be mixed with the WaterMix colors directly?
Carrier and Stabilizer Necessity: Are the carrier Propylene Glycol (USP) and the stabilizer Magnesium Sulfate necessary to include in the formula, or are they optional?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

For your foundation color matching project using WaterMix™ liquid colors, which are water-dispersible pigments, choosing the right base and carrier is essential for stability and ease of use. Here are the recommendations based on your specific questions:

1. Selection of Clear Base (Oil-Free)

Since the WaterMix™ series is water-based, the base must be able to incorporate water without separating. We recommend two options depending on your desired final texture:

Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: This is a pure water-based gel that is completely oil-free. It is excellent for creating a primary color "stock" because it is very easy to mix and keeps the pigments well-suspended.
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye): This is a silicone-based serum that can hold a high percentage of water (30-90%) while remaining oil-free. It provides a professional "silky" feel and improves compatibility with silicone-heavy foundation formulas.

2. Direct Mixing and Procedures

Both bases can be mixed with WaterMix™ colors, but the method differs:

Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Can be mixed directly and easily by stirring.
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye): Can be mixed directly, but you must add the WaterMix™ color slowly while stirring or blending. Adding too much water-based color at once can make it difficult for the silicone base to emulsify the liquid.

3. Carrier and Stabilizer Necessity

Propylene Glycol (USP) (Carrier):
- Is it necessary? It is highly recommended (5-10%).
- Why? It acts as a carrier that prevents the pigment stock from drying out into a film in the bottle or dropper. It also helps the color disperse more evenly when you drop the stock into your final foundation formula.
Magnesium Sulfate (Stabilizer):
- Is it necessary? It is mandatory if you use Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) but not needed for Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base.
- Why? In the silicone-based serum, Magnesium Sulfate (at 1%) acts as a stabilizer for the water-in-silicone emulsion, preventing the color from separating over time.

Summary Recommendation for Color Stocks:

Option A (Easiest): Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base + WaterMix™ + Propylene Glycol (5-10%).
Option B (Professional Feel): Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) + WaterMix™ + Propylene Glycol (5-10%) + Magnesium Sulfate (1%).

To make your color matching calculations easier, we suggest preparing each primary color at the same concentration (e.g., 20% WaterMix™ Color + 80% Base/Carrier mix).