Cleansing Balm Formulation: Oil Polarity, pH, and BHA Effectiveness with Oilsify 15

Question

I am formulating a cleansing balm using Oilsify 15 and a blend of oils including Jojoba Oil, Octyldodecanol, and Safflower Seed Oil. I have added 0.5% BHA (Salicylic Acid). What is the expected pH of this formula? Is 0.5% BHA sufficient for some minor effect? If not, how can I adjust the pH down to 4?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Cleansing Balm Formulation Feedback

Based on your formula and the staff's response:

Formula Suitability: The formula is generally suitable for a cleansing balm. However, there is a potential risk of separation over time because Oilsify 15 works best with non-polar or low-polarity oils, and your formula contains a significant amount of medium to high polarity oils (Jojoba Oil, Safflower Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol). The staff suggests reducing the proportion of these higher polarity oils if possible to improve stability.
Non-Polar Oils with Oilsify 15: Non-polar or low-polarity oils that can be used with Oilsify 15 include:
- Mineral Oil
- LipidSoft CC
- LipidSoft Lite
- LipidSoft Palm
- Fractionated Coconut Oil
Natural oils like Jojoba Oil and Safflower Seed Oil are considered medium to high polarity. While they can be used, using them in large quantities with Oilsify 15 might lead to separation. The only way to confirm stability is through testing the final mixture over 1-3 months.
Expected pH: The pH is expected to be in the range of 3-4 due to the presence of Salicylic Acid. It is recommended to measure the actual pH of your final product to confirm.
BHA Effectiveness and pH Adjustment: At a concentration of 0.5%, Salicylic Acid (BHA) can provide some minor effects, especially if the pH is in the effective range (typically 3-4), which is expected for your formula. The staff did not provide methods for pH adjustment, likely because the pH is already anticipated to be low enough for BHA activity. You should measure the pH to be certain.