Cleansing Oil Cream Formulation Issue: Not Forming Cream Texture

Question

I am trying to make a Cleansing Oil Cream using the following formula, but it doesn't turn into a cream; it remains a clear liquid.

Formula:

Oilsify 15: 15%
Mineral Oil ชนิดหนัก: 50%
น้ำมันระหุ่ง: 10%
LipidSoft™ Palm: 14.8%
Cetearyl Alcohol: 10%
Phenoxyethanol SA: 0.2%

Mixing Procedure:

A. Heat ingredients 2, 3, and 5 to 70°C.
B. Mix ingredients 1, 4, and 6 together.
Combine A and B (stir manually). I'm unsure if I need to stir for a long time. I only stirred until they combined well before pouring into the bottle, so I'm not sure if the lack of cream texture is because I didn't stir enough.

I also read that for a cream texture, Cetearyl Alcohol should be added at 10-15%, so I added more.

The problem is it doesn't become a cream; it's a clear liquid. I intend to apply this product to the face, massage, and then wipe with cotton.

My second question is about the rinsing method: After wiping it off, should I rinse with water afterward?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Cleansing Oil Cream Formulation Issue

The reason your Cleansing Oil Cream formulation is not turning into a cream and remains a clear liquid is likely because Cetearyl Alcohol, while a thickener in some cream formulations, is not the primary ingredient needed to create a cream or gel texture in this specific type of oil-based cleansing system using Oilsify 15. Oilsify 15 is an oil-emulsifier designed to help the oil rinse off with water, not to form a stable cream texture before rinsing.

To achieve a cream or gel texture in a cleansing oil formulation, you typically need an oil-gelling agent. Based on the product information, Oil Thick™ Soft is specifically designed to create an oily gel texture and is suitable for use in cleansing oil cream/gel formulations. The product description for Oilsify 15 even suggests using Oil Thick™ Soft at 5% to transform a cleansing oil formula into a cream or gel.

Your current formula uses Cetearyl Alcohol at 10%, which is a high percentage for a thickener, but it functions differently than an oil-gelling agent in this context. Simply increasing the amount of Cetearyl Alcohol will not likely result in the desired cream texture.

Recommended Approach:

To achieve a cream texture, consider incorporating Oil Thick™ Soft into your formulation. You may need to adjust the percentages of other oils to accommodate the addition of the gelling agent. A typical usage rate for Oil Thick™ Soft to achieve a gel texture is 6-10%. You would likely need to heat the oil phase containing Oil Thick™ Soft to dissolve it properly, as indicated in its usage instructions.

Regarding Rinsing:

Yes, after applying and massaging the cleansing oil onto your face and then wiping it off with cotton, it is recommended to follow up by rinsing your face with water. Cleansing oils are designed to emulsify with water, turning milky, which helps to effectively rinse away the oil, dissolved makeup, and impurities, leaving your skin clean without heavy residue. The emulsifier Oilsify 15 in your formula is specifically included for this purpose – to allow the oil to be easily washed away with water.