Cleansing Oil Formulation: Ingredient Substitution and Omission

Asked by: nuttadetse On: June 17, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a cleansing oil that is an oil texture for massaging onto the face, and then turns milky when rinsed with water.

The ingredients below are taken from the bottle of a cleansing oil product that has the desired properties:

  • Olea Europaea (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL*
  • Squalane*
  • Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil*
  • Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oil*
  • ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN OIL
  • Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (JOJOBA GOLDEN) SEED OIL*
  • POLYGLYCERYL – 2 OLEATE
  • GLYCERYL HYDROXYSTEARATE*
  • POLYGLYCERYL – 10 OLEATE
  • Lavender Essential Oil (THERAPEUTIC GRADE)

I would like to ask: Which ingredients that are not available can be substituted? Or which ingredients can be omitted?

Answer

Cleansing Oil Formulation Guidance

To create a cleansing oil that emulsifies and rinses off with water, the key components are the oils and the emulsifiers.

Available Ingredients and Substitutions

Most of the oils you listed are available:

  • Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
  • Squalane
  • Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
  • Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oil
  • Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
  • Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Golden) Seed Oil

These oils form the base of your cleansing oil and help dissolve makeup and impurities. You can use the available oils as listed in the original formula. If any specific oil is unavailable, you can substitute it with other light, non-comedogenic cosmetic oils such as Sweet Almond Oil or Fractionated Coconut Oil, depending on your preference for skin feel.

The crucial ingredients for the oil to emulsify with water are the emulsifiers. From your list, the following emulsifiers are available:

  • Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate
  • Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

The combination of a low HLB emulsifier like Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate and a higher HLB emulsifier like Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate is essential for creating a cleansing oil that effectively turns milky and rinses off when mixed with water. You should include both of these in your formulation.

Glyceryl Hydroxystearate was not found as an available ingredient. This ingredient likely functions as an emollient or thickener, contributing to the texture and stability of the original product. While beneficial, the primary emulsifying action comes from the Polyglyceryl Oleates. You may be able to omit Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, or you could explore substituting it with another suitable emollient or oil-soluble thickener if you find the texture needs adjustment.

Ingredients You Can Omit

  • Lavender Essential Oil: This ingredient is primarily for fragrance. It does not contribute to the cleansing or emulsifying function of the oil. You can omit it entirely if you prefer an unscented product, or substitute it with another skin-safe essential oil or fragrance oil of your choice.

In summary, focus on using the available carrier oils and ensure you include both Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate for the emulsifying effect. You can likely omit the Glyceryl Hydroxystearate or find an alternative emollient if needed for texture, and the Lavender Essential Oil can be omitted or substituted for fragrance.