Creating a Clear 2-Layer Cleansing Remover

A 2-layer (bi-phase) cleansing remover is designed to effectively remove both water-based and oil-based makeup, including stubborn waterproof products. It consists of two distinct layers: an oil phase and a water phase.

To achieve a clear separation without cloudiness and ensure good makeup removal, consider the following:

1. The Oil Phase

This phase is crucial for dissolving oil-soluble substances like makeup, sebum, and sunscreen. It should be composed of oils that are effective makeup removers and remain clear. Light mineral oils are commonly used for this purpose due to their stability, clarity, and effectiveness. Other light, non-greasy oils can also be considered.

• Recommended Ingredient: Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Very Light (5cst)

2. The Water Phase

This phase typically contains water, humectants (like glycerin or butylene glycol) for hydration, and potentially water-soluble cleansing agents or soothing ingredients. The key is to keep this phase clear.

3. Cleansing Agents / Surfactants

Adding a cleansing agent or surfactant is important to help the two phases mix temporarily when shaken and to aid in lifting makeup and impurities. However, this is often where cloudiness can occur if the wrong type or concentration is used.

• Choosing the Right Agent: Select a gentle, non-ionic cleansing agent that is highly water-soluble and designed for makeup removal. These types of agents are less likely to cause permanent emulsification or cloudiness when used at appropriate levels.
• Recommended Ingredient: MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) is a gentle, micellar-forming agent suitable for cleansing water formulations and can help effectively remove makeup without causing excessive cloudiness in a bi-phase system when used correctly.
• Concentration is Key: Use the cleansing agent at the lowest effective concentration. High concentrations can lead to emulsification, preventing clear separation, or causing turbidity.

Basic Formula Structure Example:

A typical 2-layer remover formula structure might look like this:

• Oil Phase: 40-60%
  • Mineral Oil (or other suitable light oil)
• Water Phase: 40-60%
  • Purified Water
  • Humectant (e.g., Glycerin, Butylene Glycol) 5-10%
  • Cleansing Agent (e.g., MakeUp-Wash™) 1-5%
  • Preservative (as needed)
  • Optional: Soothing agents, colorant (ensure it's suitable for both phases or the water phase and doesn't cause issues)

Tips for Clarity and Separation:

• Ingredient Compatibility: Ensure all ingredients are compatible and soluble in their respective phases.
• Surfactant Selection & Level: This is the most critical factor for preventing cloudiness. Test different types and concentrations of cleansing agents like MakeUp-Wash™ to find the level that provides effective cleansing upon shaking but allows for clear separation.
• Mixing: The product is designed to be shaken well before use to temporarily combine the layers. The layers should separate cleanly upon standing.

By carefully selecting your oil phase, water phase components, and especially the type and concentration of your cleansing agent, you can create a clear, effective 2-layer makeup remover.