Creating a Clear, Non-Greasy Scalp Serum

You're looking to create a clear scalp serum for hair loss prevention that feels oily but doesn't contain traditional oils, and you've encountered cloudiness issues when adding water and emulsifiers.

Here's a breakdown of the issues and how to achieve your goal:

Understanding Cloudiness with Emulsifiers

You mentioned using SG KH 4000 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80), and Span 80 (Sorbitan Oleate).

• Span 80 is primarily a water-in-oil emulsifier, designed to create opaque emulsions where tiny water droplets are dispersed in oil. It is not suitable for creating a clear, water-based serum.
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Polysorbate 80 are solubilizers often used to disperse small amounts of oil or fragrance in water. However, they can cause cloudiness if the amount of oil/fragrance is too high for the concentration of solubilizer, or if the specific oil/fragrance is difficult to solubilize clearly. Since you want to avoid oil, you might not need these for solubilizing oil, but you might need a solubilizer for oil-soluble active ingredients or fragrances if you add them. For clear solutions, specialized high-clarity solubilizers are often needed.

Achieving an Oily Feel Without Oil

Glycerin (USP/Food Grade) is a humectant that draws moisture and provides a smooth feel, but it doesn't typically give an "oily" sensation. At higher concentrations, it can feel slightly sticky or tacky.

To get a non-greasy, oily or silky feel without using traditional oils, consider ingredients like:

• Silicones: Ingredients like Dimethicone can provide a smooth, slippery, and non-greasy feel.
• Light Esters or Ethers: Certain cosmetic esters or ethers offer a dry, silky, or non-oily feel.
• Glycols: Ingredients like Isopentyldiol can contribute to a pleasant feel and act as solvents.

Incorporating Herbal Extracts

To keep your serum clear while adding herbal extracts for hair loss:

• Water-Soluble Extracts: Many beneficial extracts are water-soluble and can be added directly to the water phase of your serum. An example is Minoxol Aqua™.
• Extracts Soluble in Specific Solvents: Some potent extracts, like Clover Flower Extract (Biochanin A 98%), are soluble in solvents such as Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) or Isopentyldiol. You can dissolve the extract in the appropriate solvent first before incorporating this solution into your water phase. Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) also helps enhance penetration of actives into the scalp.

Formulation Approach for a Clear Serum

1. Start with your water phase (e.g., purified water).
2. Add water-soluble ingredients, such as Glycerin (for hydration and feel, but note it won't provide an oily feel), and water-soluble hair loss actives like Minoxol Aqua™.
3. If using oil-soluble actives or extracts like Clover Flower Extract, dissolve them completely in a suitable solvent like Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) or Isopentyldiol in a separate container.
4. Slowly add the solvent/active mixture from step 3 to the water phase from step 2, stirring gently until fully dispersed and clear.
5. If you need to incorporate a small amount of oil-soluble fragrance or a very small amount of an oil-soluble active that isn't fully soluble in the chosen solvents, you would need a high-clarity solubilizer. However, since your goal is no oil, focus on water-soluble or solvent-soluble actives.
6. Add ingredients for feel, such as Dimethicone (if using), or adjust the concentration of glycols like Isopentyldiol.
7. Add preservatives and adjust pH if necessary.

By focusing on water-soluble ingredients and using appropriate solvents like Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) or Isopentyldiol for extracts that require them, you can create a clear serum with a pleasant, non-greasy feel without needing traditional oils or emulsifiers that cause cloudiness.