Cold Process Body Spray Formulation for Dry Feel and Stability
Question
I would like to inquire about and request advice for a cold process body spray formulation. The focus is on a dry, comfortable, non-sticky feel, easy mixing (cold process), and no phase separation. I have the following proposed formula.
Please advise on any adjustments (increase or decrease ingredients) you recommend, and provide the mixing method.
Proposed Formula:
- DI Water: 66.70%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.20%
- Allantoin: 0.25%
- LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate): 7.00%
- Eco solve: 7.00%
- Condi B5: 0.30%
- Lipid soft DEO -Tri: 1.00%
- Methyl Gluceth-10: 0.50%
- Moist 24 :Glycereth-26: 0.50%
- Transmoist PPG-24-Glycereth-24: 1.00%
- WaterLube™ Slip: 1.00%
- Light lotion maker: 3.00%
- Polysorbate 80: 0.45%
- DEO MAX Liquid: 2.50%
- Silicone Quick-Cond: 1.10%
- CycloSorb™ Clear: 4.00%
- Mild Preserved Eco (add in final step): 1.00%
- Lactic acid: 2.50%
- Total: 100.00%
Please provide recommendations for adjustments and a cold process mixing method.
Answer
Formula Analysis and Suggestions
Your formula includes good choices for a dry and non-greasy feel, such as LipidSoft™ Dry II, WaterLube™ Slip, and Silicone Quick-Cond. Eco Solve™ is included to help solubilize the oil-like components in the water base, which is important for a clear, non-separating spray.
However, there are a few points to consider for optimal stability and performance:
- Stability with Light Lotion Maker: You are using Light Lotion Maker and Polysorbate 80 as emulsifiers/solubilizers. The description for Light Lotion Maker suggests using 3-4% Light Lotion Maker with 1% Polysorbate 80 for spray formulas to prevent separation. Your formula uses 3% Light Lotion Maker but only 0.45% Polysorbate 80. Increasing Polysorbate 80 to 1% might improve stability. Additionally, the description recommends adding a small amount of Xanthan Gum (around 0.2%) when using Light Lotion Maker in spray formulas to help prevent separation and provide a bit more body, which is currently missing from your formula.
- Eco Solve™ Percentage: 7% Eco Solve™ is a relatively high percentage for solubilizing 8% total LipidSofts (7% LipidSoft Dry II + 1% LipidSoft Deo). While it helps ensure clarity, using too much solubilizer can sometimes contribute to a slightly sticky feel. However, given the goal of a clear spray and the other dry-feel ingredients, this might be necessary. You could potentially try reducing it slightly in tests if you find the final product feels stickier than desired, but 7% should ensure good solubilization.
- Moist 24™ Percentage: You are using 0.5% Moist 24™. The recommended usage rate for general skincare products is 1-5%. Increasing Moist 24™ to 1-2% could enhance the moisturizing benefits and improve the texture without adding significant stickiness, as Moist 24™ is known for a pleasant skin feel.
- CycloSorb™ Clear and Fragrance: CycloSorb™ Clear is an excellent odor absorber. However, it works by absorbing volatile molecules, including fragrance. If you plan to add fragrance to this body spray, CycloSorb™ Clear will absorb the fragrance, making both the fragrance and the odor absorption less effective. You also have DEO MAX™ Liquid, which is another effective deodorant active. Consider whether odor absorption (without fragrance) or fragrance (without CycloSorb™ Clear) is the priority. If fragrance is important, it's best to remove CycloSorb™ Clear. If odor absorption is the main goal, avoid adding fragrance.
- Lactic Acid and pH: 2.5% Lactic Acid (assuming 90% concentration) will lower the pH of the formula. Lactic Acid is effective as an AHA for skin softening and exfoliation at a pH below 4.0, but for consumer products, the pH should not be lower than 3.5 according to FDA guidelines. Also, Condi-B5™ requires a pH below 7.0, and Light Lotion Maker and Mild Preserved Eco™ work best in the pH range of 4-9. You must check the final pH of your formula after adding Lactic Acid and adjust it if necessary (usually upwards using a dilute Sodium Hydroxide solution) to ensure it is safe, effective, and compatible with all ingredients, ideally between pH 4.0 and 6.0.
Recommended Adjustments (Optional, based on your priorities):
- Increase Polysorbate 80 to 1%.
- Add Xanthan Gum (clear gel type) at 0.1-0.2% (pre-dispersed).
- Consider increasing Moist 24™ to 1-2%.
- Decide whether to keep CycloSorb™ Clear (no fragrance) or remove it (if adding fragrance).
- Plan to check and adjust the final pH.
Cold Process Mixing Method
Here is a suggested cold-process mixing method for your formula, incorporating the optional addition of Xanthan Gum:
- In your main mixing vessel, add the DI Water.
- Add Disodium EDTA and stir until completely dissolved.
- Add Allantoin and stir until dissolved.
- Add Condi B5™ and stir until dissolved.
- Add Methyl Gluceth-10, Moist 24™, Transmoist PPG-24-Glycereth-24, WaterLube™ Slip, DEO MAX™ Liquid, Silicone Quick-Cond, and CycloSorb™ Clear (if using). Stir until all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved or dispersed.
- Optional (Recommended for stability): In a separate small container, disperse the Xanthan Gum (e.g., 0.1-0.2%) in a small amount of glycerin or a portion of the LipidSoft Dry II. Add this dispersion to the water phase (from step 5) while stirring vigorously to create a slightly thickened water phase without clumps.
- In another separate container, combine LipidSoft™ Dry II, Lipid soft DEO -Tri, Eco Solve™, Light Lotion Maker, and Polysorbate 80. Stir until uniformly mixed.
- Slowly add the oil/emulsifier mixture (from step 7) to the water phase (from step 5, potentially thickened in step 6) while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the mixture is homogeneous and appears fully emulsified.
- Add Lactic acid and stir well.
- Check the pH of the formula using a pH meter or pH strips. If the pH is below 3.5, prepare a dilute solution of Sodium Hydroxide (e.g., 10-20% solution) and add it drop by drop while stirring and monitoring the pH until it is between 4.0 and 6.0.
- Add Mild Preserved Eco™ and stir until fully incorporated.
- (If adding fragrance and not using CycloSorb™ Clear) Add your fragrance and stir gently.
- Stir gently to minimize air bubbles. Package your body spray.
Follow-up Replies
Question:
ตอนนี้ Light Lotion Maker ต้องสั่งขั้นต่ำ 10000 กรัม มันมากเกินไป สามารถใช้อะไรแทนในสูตรนี้ได้คะ
Answer:
Creating a Sprayable Emulsion
To create a sprayable emulsion that remains stable and doesn't separate, you can use Spray Maker™ (ID 33942). This emulsifier is specifically designed for low-viscosity emulsions suitable for spraying.
- Usage Rate: 5-10% (8% recommended)
- Mixing: Dissolve in the oil phase.
- pH Range: Suitable for formulas with a pH of 3.0-10.0.
You can also incorporate moisturizing ingredients like UltraMild Aquaporin™ (Glyceryl Glucoside, ID 6241) to enhance skin hydration.
- Benefits: Acts as an Aquaporin to maintain skin moisture, improves elasticity, smoothness, and thickness.
- Usage Rate: 0.5-3%
- Mixing: Dissolve in the water phase.
- pH Range: Withstands pH 3.0-11.0.
Combine these with your desired active ingredients, humectants (like Glycerin, which is already part of UltraMild Aquaporin's composition), and preservatives to create your final sprayable formula.
Related Products Mentioned
Allantoin
Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80)
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Silicone Quick-Cond (PEG-12 Dimethicone)
MOIST24
LipidSoft™ Deo (Triethyl Citrate, TEC)
LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)
Light Lotion Maker
DeoMax™ Liquid
TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24)
Methyl Gluceth-10
CycloSorb™ Clear (Water-Soluble)