Cold Process Cream Formulation with High Oil Content (50%)

Asked by: armaherb On: June 12, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a cream using a cold process, specifically with 50% Fractionated Coconut Oil and 50% water mixed with mangosteen peel extract.

Based on this, I have the following questions:

  1. What ingredients should I add to help the cream penetrate the skin better and provide long-lasting moisture? Please specify the ingredient and its percentage.
  2. Since the formula contains a significant amount of oil, what emulsifier should I use to bind the oil and water phases? Please specify the ingredient and its percentage.
  3. Could you please provide the complete formula in percentages and the mixing method for this cold process cream?

Answer

Cream Formulation (Cold Process) with High Oil Content

Based on your requirement to create a cream using 50% Fractionated Coconut Oil and 50% water with mangosteen peel extract, specifically avoiding heat, here is a recommended formula and guidance:

Fractionated Coconut Oil is an excellent choice for a cold process formulation due to its stability, lack of odor, and liquid form. The high oil content you plan to use (50%) will naturally result in a rich, thick cream texture that is highly suitable for dry skin and provides long-lasting moisture. However, please note that with such a high oil percentage, the cream might not absorb into the skin as quickly as lighter formulations.

To effectively emulsify this high amount of oil into water without using heat, the recommended ingredient is Oil Cream Maker™. This emulsifier is specifically designed for cold process formulations with high oil loads.

Recommended Basic Formula

Here is a basic formula based on your desired oil/water ratio and the need for a cold process:

  • Oil Phase:
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 49.3%
  • Water Phase:
    • Water + Mangosteen Peel Extract: 49.3%
  • Emulsifier:
    • Oil Cream Maker™: 0.4%
  • Preservative:
    • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1.0%
  • Total: 100.0%

Addressing Your Questions:

  1. Thick cream suitable for dry skin: The high percentage of Fractionated Coconut Oil (49.3%) combined with the emulsifying action of Oil Cream Maker™ will create a rich, thick cream texture that is very suitable for dry skin, providing significant emollience and a protective barrier.
  2. Skin penetration and long-lasting moisture: The high oil content ensures long-lasting moisture retention. As mentioned, penetration might be slower compared to lighter creams due to the high oil load.
  3. Emulsifier for high oil content without heat: Oil Cream Maker™ at 0.4% is the recommended emulsifier for this formula. It is effective at binding a high percentage of oil (up to 70%) into water using a cold process, which is essential for preserving the quality of the cold-pressed oil.
  4. Additional suitable ingredients: This basic formula provides a stable base. You can enhance it by adding other active ingredients suitable for a cold process and compatible with the formula's pH (typically 4.0-8.0 for Oil Cream Maker™). Examples could include additional humectants (like Glycerin or Sodium Hyaluronate) in the water phase or oil-soluble vitamins (like Vitamin E) in the oil phase. Always add preservatives if adding water-based ingredients.
  5. Formula % and mixing method: The formula percentages are provided above. For detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to mix using Oil Cream Maker™ via a cold process, please refer to the specific product page for Oil Cream Maker™ on the website. Generally, it involves mixing the emulsifier with the oil phase and then slowly adding the water phase while blending with sufficient speed (a blender is required, hand stirring is not sufficient).

This formula provides a rich, moisturizing cream base using a cold process as you requested, effectively emulsifying the high oil content.

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