Color Stability and Staining Prevention in Pink Toner Formulations

Question

I want to formulate a toner with a light pink shade using water-soluble dyes like Red Powder (CI16255, CI14720), D&C Red No.33 (CI17200), D&C Red No.22 (CI45380), or Glow Pink (Water-Soluble, Fluorescent). Do these dyes tend to fade or change color over time? Should I use opaque or UV-protected packaging to maintain the color? For a toner, should I choose a non-staining water-soluble dye to avoid leaving residue on the skin? Since D&C Red No.33 is not recommended for leave-on products like creams, lotions, or serums due to staining, should I use the EasyWash™ version instead? Is it necessary to add an antioxidant to the toner formula to help preserve color intensity and prevent degradation from oxidation?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

For creating a light pink cosmetic toner using water-soluble dyes, here are the detailed recommendations based on your questions:

1. Color Fading and Packaging

Water-soluble dyes, including Red Powder (CI16255, CI14720), D&C Red No.33 (CI17200), D&C Red No.22 (CI45380), and Glow Pink, are generally sensitive to UV light and heat, which can cause them to fade or change color over time.

Packaging: If you wish to use clear packaging to show the pink color, it is highly recommended to include a UV stabilizer in the formula. If no stabilizer is used, opaque or UV-protected (amber/dark) packaging is necessary to maintain color stability.
Recommendation: Use ActiveProtec™ UV, which is a water-soluble UV filter and antioxidant blend designed specifically to prevent color fading in water-based formulas.

2. Staining vs. Non-Staining (EasyWash™)

Since a toner is a "leave-on" product, using dyes that stain the skin is generally not recommended.

Standard Dyes: D&C Red No.33 and D&C Red No.22 in their standard powder forms have high staining properties. If used in a toner, they may leave a pink tint on the user's skin.
EasyWash™ Dyes: For toners, serums, and creams, it is much better to use the EasyWash™ versions, such as D&C Red No.33 EasyWash™ or D&C Red No.22 EasyWash™. These are specifically modified to be non-staining and are easier to wash off, making them ideal for skincare products.

3. Use of Antioxidants

Adding an antioxidant is beneficial for maintaining the overall stability of the formula and protecting the dye from oxidation.

ActiveProtec™ UV already contains Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate), which acts as an antioxidant. This single ingredient provides dual protection against both UV-induced fading and oxidation.

Summary of Recommendations:

For the best results in a toner: Use D&C Red No.33 EasyWash™ or D&C Red No.22 EasyWash™ to achieve a light pink shade without staining the skin.
To prevent fading: Always add ActiveProtec™ UV at 1-2% of the formula, especially if using clear bottles.
Glow Pink: If you choose Glow Pink (Fluorescent), be aware that it is particularly sensitive to light and must be used with a UV protector like ActiveProtec™ UV.

Note: Because these dyes are highly concentrated, always add them in very small amounts (e.g., using a toothpick or a dilute solution) until the desired light pink shade is achieved.