Combining Actives & Modifying Lotion for Oily, Sensitive Skin

Hello,

Thank you for your questions regarding your skincare routine for oily, easily irritated, thin skin with visible blood vessels and acne.

Regarding using BHA 1%, Mandelic Acid 5%, and Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum together:

Given your skin type (oily, easily irritated, thin, with visible blood vessels, and currently treating acne), using multiple active ingredients like BHA, Mandelic Acid, and Vitamin C simultaneously can potentially cause irritation.

• BHA (Salicylic Acid) and Mandelic Acid are both exfoliants. While Mandelic Acid is generally considered gentler than other AHAs, using it at 5% along with 1% BHA might be too much exfoliation for sensitive skin.
• Stabilized Vitamin C (Natural-C Glycol™) Serum is an active ingredient that can also cause redness or irritation in some individuals, as mentioned by the staff.

Combining these three could overwhelm your skin, leading to increased redness, irritation, or sensitivity.

Recommendation: It is best to introduce new active ingredients gradually and observe your skin's response. Consider using these ingredients on alternate nights or days. For example:

• Night 1: BHA 1% + Aloe Vera Gel
• Night 2: Mandelic Acid 5% + Aloe Vera Gel
• Night 3: Stabilized Vitamin C Serum + Aloe Vera Gel
• Night 4: Rest or use only soothing/hydrating products.

You can also try using BHA or Mandelic Acid in the morning and Vitamin C at night, or vice versa, depending on tolerance. Start with lower frequencies (e.g., every other night or every third night) and slowly increase as your skin adapts. Pay close attention to any signs of irritation, redness, or discomfort. If irritation occurs, reduce the frequency or stop using the product causing it.

Regarding modifying the La Mer The Treatment Lotion formula:

You enjoyed the hydrating benefits of La Mer The Treatment Lotion but found it too oily/sticky for your oily skin at night. Based on the ingredient list, the oiliness/stickiness could be due to the combination of humectants (like Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, etc.) and potentially some of the plant oils (Sesame Seed Oil, Sweet Almond Seed Meal/Oil) and the silicone derivative (Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane).

To create a less oily/sticky version suitable for your oily, acne-prone skin for nighttime use, you could consider a formula that focuses on hydration and soothing ingredients while minimizing heavy emollients or oils.

Here are some suggestions based on the La Mer ingredients and ingredients you've used or plan to use:

• Base: Start with a water base. You could use a lightweight gel base like the Aloe Vera Gel you are currently using (Pure Aloe Vera Gel).
• Hydration: Include humectants but perhaps at slightly lower concentrations or choose ones known to feel less sticky. Ingredients like Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Urea, and Trehalose from the La Mer list are good hydrators. Reservoir-Tech, which you plan to use in your exfoliant formula, is also a good option for hydration and penetration.
• Soothing/Beneficial Actives: Incorporate ingredients like Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, and Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), which are present in La Mer and beneficial for skin health and potentially oil control (Niacinamide). Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate is also a good soothing agent. Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), which you asked about, is also known for its skin barrier repair benefits.
• Texture/Emollience: To avoid oiliness, minimize or exclude heavy plant oils. If you need a touch of emollience for spreadability, use a lightweight, non-comedogenic option like LipidSoft Lite (which you plan to use in your sunscreen). You could use a gelling agent like Pro Polymer (which you plan to use in your exfoliant serum) to create a light, non-sticky gel texture.
• Avoid: For sensitive, acne-prone skin, it's best to avoid added Fragrance and potentially irritating essential oils like Eucalyptus Leaf Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, and Citronellol, which are present in La Mer.

Example Concept (Not a precise formula):

A lightweight serum or gel focusing on:

• Water/Aloe Vera Gel Base
• Hydrators (e.g., Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Reservoir-Tech)
• Soothing/Barrier Support (e.g., Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Niacinamide, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Repair Activator)
• Light Emollience (e.g., a small amount of LipidSoft Lite)
• Gelling agent for texture (e.g., Pro Polymer)
• Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco)
• Avoid Fragrance/Essential Oils

You would need to determine the appropriate percentages for each ingredient based on desired texture and efficacy, starting with lower concentrations for actives on sensitive skin.

Regarding your proposed formulas:

• Your proposed gentle exfoliant serum with Pumpkin Renew 5%, Pro Polymer 1%, Reservoir-Tech 3%, and Mild Preserved Eco 1% in Water seems reasonable for a gentle exfoliating serum. Pumpkin Renew is an enzymatic exfoliant, generally milder than AHAs/BHAs.
• For the sunscreen formula, the staff correctly advised that Milk Lotion Maker requires 3-4% usage, not 1%, and needs heat for mixing. LipidSoft Lite 1% is fine to add for texture. Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano) does not require heat for efficacy, but the emulsifier might.

I hope this helps! Please continue to observe your skin's reaction to any new products or formulations.