Compatibility and Solubility of Grape Seed Extract with AHA in Gel

Question

Dear Staff, I would like to ask if Grape Seed Extract is compatible with AHA, based on the formula below. From my testing, it seems like it doesn't dissolve completely into a uniform gel texture.

Lactic Acid (AHA) 90% (Standard grade - with odor) 10%
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Fine) 10%
Disodium EDTA 2%
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins) 2%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 2%
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless) 3%
Distilled Water to 100%

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Compatibility of Grape Seed Extract and AHA

Regarding your question about combining Grape Seed Extract and AHA (Lactic Acid) in your formulation:

Generally, Grape Seed Extract and AHA are compatible and do not cause harmful chemical reactions when used together in cosmetic formulations.

However, based on your observation that the Grape Seed Extract does not seem to dissolve completely in the gel, this is likely a solubility issue. Grape Seed Extract is a plant extract containing various compounds, including Proanthocyanidins, which can have varying solubility depending on the specific extract, its concentration, and the overall composition of the formulation.

In your formula, you have several ingredients, including Lactic Acid and L-Ascorbic Acid, which create an acidic environment. While this acidity is necessary for the efficacy of AHA and L-Ascorbic Acid, it can sometimes affect the solubility of other ingredients, particularly certain plant extracts or polyphenols like those found in Grape Seed Extract. The presence of the gel maker (Pro Polymer) and other ingredients might also influence the solubility and dispersion of the extract powder within the gel matrix.

Therefore, while chemically compatible, achieving complete and stable dissolution of Grape Seed Extract in this specific acidic gel formulation can be challenging due to its physical properties and interactions with other components.