Compatibility of Licorice, AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, LHAs with Copper Peptides

Asked by: m.chayuti On: June 12, 2025 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Are all forms of Licorice and its active compounds, as well as AHA, BHA, PHA, and LHA acids, compatible with all forms of copper peptide, or only specific forms or derivatives?

Answer

Compatibility of Licorice, AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, LHAs with Copper Peptides

Generally, combining acidic exfoliants like AHAs (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid), BHA (Salicylic Acid), PHA (Gluconolactone), and LHA (Capryloyl Salicylic Acid) with Copper Peptides in the same formulation is not recommended due to conflicting pH requirements.

  • Acidic Exfoliants (AHAs, BHA, PHA, LHA): These ingredients are most effective at exfoliating the skin when formulated at an acidic pH, typically below 4.5 (often lower for optimal performance).
  • Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu, Bis Tripeptide-1 Copper Acetate): Copper Peptides require a higher pH range, typically between 4.5 and 7.4, for stability and efficacy. If the pH is too low, the Copper Peptide can degrade.

Attempting to combine them in a single product would mean compromising the optimal pH for one or both ingredients, significantly reducing their effectiveness or causing instability.

Licorice extracts and their active compounds like Glabridin and Licochalcone A have varying pH tolerances depending on the specific extract. While some forms might be stable at a pH suitable for Copper Peptides, the primary incompatibility lies with the acidic exfoliants. Glycyrrhizic acid, another compound found in licorice, also has various benefits but its compatibility in specific pH ranges needs to be considered within the overall formula.

Recommendation:
If you wish to use both acidic exfoliants (AHAs, BHA, PHA, LHA) and Copper Peptides, it is best to use them in separate products applied at different times of the day or on different days. This allows each ingredient to work within its optimal pH range without interfering with the stability or efficacy of the other.