Compatibility of PoreNin™ (Tannic Acid) with Pep®-CalmMax in Toner Formulation

Question

I am formulating a toner and want to ensure it remains clear without cloudiness or precipitation. My current formula includes:

PoreNin™ (Natural Extracted Tannic Acid)
Vitamin B6
Witch Hazel water (base)

Previously, I tested adding MYFerment™ Exfo, but the system became cloudy, so I removed it and do not want to repeat that result.

I want to ask if including Pep®-CalmMax in the formula will cause cloudiness or precipitation, as Pep®-CalmMax contains Polysorbate 20. Based on my tests, PoreNin™ easily causes cloudiness and precipitation when it comes into contact with emulsifiers.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the chemical properties of the ingredients in your formula, adding Pep®-CalmMax to a system containing PoreNin™ (Natural Extracted Tannic Acid) is very likely to cause cloudiness or precipitation.

Why precipitation occurs with PoreNin™ (Tannic Acid)

PoreNin™ is 100% Tannic Acid, a polyphenol known as a "tanning agent." Its primary chemical characteristic is its ability to bind and precipitate various substances, particularly proteins and certain surfactants.

Interaction with Polysorbate 20: You are correct that PoreNin™ is highly sensitive to emulsifiers. Tannic acid forms insoluble complexes with non-ionic surfactants like Polysorbate 20 (which is present at 2% in Pep®-CalmMax). Even at low concentrations in the final formula, this interaction often results in a cloudy appearance or fine sediment.
Interaction with Peptides: Pep®-CalmMax contains a blend of peptides (Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, Palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and Tripeptide-2). Tannic acid naturally reacts with proteins and peptides, causing them to cross-link and precipitate out of the solution.
The MYFerment™ Exfo Failure: The reason MYFerment™ Exfo (Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate) caused cloudiness in your previous test is similar. As a "lysate," it contains broken-down bacterial cell components, including proteins and enzymes. The Tannic Acid in PoreNin™ reacted with these proteins, leading to the precipitation you observed.

Formulation Analysis

Base (Witch Hazel + Vitamin B6): Witch Hazel and Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride) are generally compatible with PoreNin™ because they maintain an acidic environment (pH 3-5), which helps stabilize Tannic Acid. However, Vitamin B6 is an electrolyte, and Tannic Acid can sometimes be sensitive to high electrolyte concentrations, though the surfactant/peptide interaction is the much more significant risk here.
Pep®-CalmMax Compatibility: Because it contains both a non-ionic surfactant (Polysorbate 20) and peptides, it is not recommended for use in a clear toner formula that contains PoreNin™.

Recommendations for a Clear Toner

To maintain a clear, stable toner while using PoreNin™, you should:

Avoid all Peptides and Proteins: These will almost always precipitate with Tannic Acid.
Avoid Emulsifiers/Solubilizers: Avoid ingredients containing Polysorbates, PEG-hydrogenated castor oils, or other non-ionic surfactants.
Keep the Formula Simple: Stick to water-soluble actives that do not have a protein structure or surfactant base. If you need soothing effects without using peptides, consider high-purity botanical extracts that are already clarified and do not contain high levels of protein.
Check Concentration: Ensure you are using PoreNin™ within the recommended range (0.1-3.0%), as Tannic Acid has a limited solubility in water and may precipitate if the concentration is too high.