Cream Formulation Analysis for Very Dry Skin with Sun Protection

Asked by: deesaku On: November 10, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please analyze a cream formulation for very dry skin based on its ingredients? Specifically, I would like to understand:

  • How do the key ingredients contribute to moisturizing and sun protection?
  • Is Urea suitable for very dry skin, and what concentration range is typically used for moisturizing versus exfoliation?
  • What are the typical usage percentages for the ingredients mentioned?

Answer

Cream Formulation Analysis for Very Dry Skin

This cream formulation contains a blend of ingredients designed to moisturize, protect from the sun, and provide a pleasant texture.

Key Moisturizing Ingredients:

  • Urea: This is a highly effective moisturizer and a component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). At concentrations typically used in cosmetics (often 3-10% for moisturizing), Urea helps the skin hold onto water and can improve the skin barrier. At higher concentrations (above 10%), it also has keratolytic properties, meaning it helps to gently exfoliate dead skin cells. For very dry skin, Urea is generally beneficial and helps alleviate dryness and flaking. The concern about Urea "biting" or irritating the skin usually arises at higher concentrations used for exfoliation or on compromised skin. In a moisturizing day cream, the concentration is likely within a range suitable for hydration.
  • Sodium Lactate: Another component of the skin's NMF, Sodium Lactate is an excellent humectant that helps the skin retain moisture. It works synergistically with Urea and Sodium PCA (which is part of the Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids blend).
  • Sodium Hyaluronate: A form of Hyaluronic Acid, this ingredient is a powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and plump.
  • Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter) & Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond Oil): These are emollients and occlusives. They help to soften and smooth the skin and create a barrier on the surface to prevent water loss, which is crucial for very dry skin.
  • Dimethicone & Polymethylsilsesquioxane: Silicones that provide a smooth feel and can help form a protective barrier on the skin, reducing moisture loss. Polymethylsilsesquioxane also helps with texture and can provide a soft-focus effect.
  • Arginine HCL & Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: Amino acids are also components of the skin's NMF and help to hydrate and support the skin barrier.
  • Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides: An emollient derived from coconut oil and glycerin, adding to the moisturizing and skin-softening properties.
  • Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate: An emollient ester that provides a smooth feel.

Sunscreen Ingredients:

  • Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone), Octocrylene, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT): These are chemical sunscreen filters that provide protection against UV radiation. Avobenzone primarily protects against UVA rays, while Octocrylene and BEMT offer broader protection including UVB and UVA.

Other Ingredients:

  • Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate: These are likely emulsifiers and thickeners that help create the cream's texture and keep the oil and water phases mixed.
  • 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol: These are preservatives or preservative boosters that prevent microbial growth in the product. 1,2-Hexanediol also has some moisturizing and penetration enhancing properties.
  • BHT: An antioxidant used to prevent the degradation of oils and other sensitive ingredients.
  • Trisodium EDTA: A chelating agent that helps improve the stability and shelf life of the product by binding to metal ions.
  • Lactic Acid: An Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA). At lower concentrations, Lactic Acid acts as a humectant. At higher concentrations (typically above 5% and depending on pH), it provides exfoliation. The product description mentions usage rates of 1-10% for general use and up to 30% for professional peeling, with a recommended pH below 4.0 for optimal efficacy. Its presence suggests it might contribute to both hydration and gentle exfoliation, which can help improve the appearance of dry, dull skin. However, for very dry and potentially compromised skin, the exfoliating effect of Lactic Acid (depending on its concentration and the product's pH) could potentially cause irritation.
  • Chondrus Crispus: Likely used as a thickener or film-former, also has some moisturizing properties.
  • Glycine Soja Germ Extract (Soy Extract): Contains isoflavones like Genistein, which can have antioxidant properties and may help improve skin elasticity and hydration.

Regarding Urea and Dry Skin:

For very dry skin, Urea is generally a beneficial ingredient at appropriate concentrations (typically 5-10% for moisturizing). It helps to hydrate the skin and can improve the skin barrier function. The concern about it "biting" or irritating the skin is more relevant at higher concentrations used for exfoliation or if the skin barrier is severely damaged. This formulation includes many other moisturizing and emollient ingredients that should help counteract any potential dryness or irritation, making it suitable for very dry skin. However, individual skin sensitivity varies, so it's always a good idea to patch test if you have concerns.

Regarding Percentages:

I cannot provide the exact percentage of each ingredient in this specific cream formulation. Formulations are proprietary, and the precise percentages are determined by the manufacturer to achieve the desired product performance and stability. The product descriptions for individual ingredients often provide typical usage rate ranges, but the actual percentage in a final product can vary.

In summary, this cream appears to be well-formulated for very dry skin, combining multiple humectants, emollients, and occlusives to provide hydration and barrier support, along with sun protection. The inclusion of Urea at a suitable concentration for moisturizing is beneficial for dry skin.