Cream Formulation: Incorporating Cholesterol and Heat-Sensitive Actives

Question

I have a cream formulation containing Cholesterol and several heat-sensitive active ingredients. I encountered an issue where the Cholesterol solidifies after dissolving in LipidSoft F upon cooling. The staff recommended adjusting the formula and using a hot process method with specific emulsifiers.

Could you please provide the detailed formula and mixing steps for this approach, ensuring proper incorporation of Cholesterol and protection of the heat-sensitive ingredients?

The recommended formula is as follows:

Water Phase

Ceramide 5%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 5%
B3 2%
B12 1%
Atopi Telmesteine 2.5%
lemon peel 2%
Tranexamic Acid 1%
MOIST24 3%
Satin Cream Maker 2%
1,2-Hexanediol 3%
Water (Distilled Water) Remaining to 100%

Oil Phase

LipidSoft F 2%
Cholesterol 4%
Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid 3%
LipidSoft Lite 5%
Butter Cream Maker 3%

Mixing Procedure:

Heat ingredients 11, 12, 14, and 15 to a high temperature (90-100°C). Ensure Cholesterol is completely dissolved, becoming a clear liquid oil phase.
Heat ingredient 16 (Water) to near boiling, aiming for a temperature close to the oil phase (Step 1).
Continuously stir the oil phase (Step 1) and gradually add the hot water phase (Step 16) until all water is incorporated. The mixture should become a liquid cream.
Turn off the heat but continue stirring the mixture. When the temperature drops to approximately 60°C, gradually add ingredients 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, and 13 into the continuously stirred mixture.
Once all ingredients are well combined, add ingredient 9 (Satin Cream Maker) and continue stirring until the powder dissolves. This will thicken the mixture into a cream.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Advice on dissolving Cholesterol for cream formulation

Regarding your issue with Cholesterol solidifying after dissolving in LipidSoft F, this is expected because Cholesterol needs to be incorporated into the cream while it is still hot and completely dissolved. If it cools down before being properly emulsified into the water phase, it will re-solidify.

The amount of LipidSoft F (2g for 4g Cholesterol) might be a factor, but the primary issue is the mixing process. Simply dissolving it and letting it cool will cause it to solidify.

Based on the staff's recommendation, the correct method involves heating both the oil phase (containing Cholesterol and other oil-soluble ingredients, including a heat-tolerant emulsifier like Butter Cream Maker) and the water phase separately to a high temperature (90-100°C). Then, while continuously stirring the oil phase, gradually add the hot water phase to create an emulsion. This process ensures the Cholesterol is dispersed within the cream structure before it has a chance to solidify upon cooling.

To address your concern about heat damaging other active ingredients, the staff's recommended procedure adds heat-sensitive ingredients (like Ceramide, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamins B3 and B12, Atopi Telmesteine, Lemon Peel, Tranexamic Acid, MOIST24, 1,2-Hexanediol, and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid) after the main emulsion has formed and cooled down to around 60°C. The final thickener (Satin Cream Maker) is added last. This staged addition protects the heat-sensitive components.

Please follow the detailed mixing steps provided by the staff:

Heat the oil phase ingredients (LipidSoft F, Cholesterol, LipidSoft Lite, Butter Cream Maker) to 90-100°C until Cholesterol is completely dissolved.
Heat the water (Distilled Water) to a similar temperature (almost boiling).
While continuously stirring the hot oil phase, slowly add the hot water phase. Continue mixing until a liquid cream forms.
Turn off the heat but continue stirring. When the temperature drops to about 60°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients (Ceramide, Double Hyaluron Liquid, B3, B12, Atopi Telmesteine, lemon peel, Tranexamic Acid, MOIST24, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid) down into the mixture while stirring.
Once all ingredients are well combined, add Satin Cream Maker and continue stirring until the powder dissolves, which will help the mixture thicken into a cream.

This method ensures proper incorporation of Cholesterol and protects heat-sensitive ingredients.