Cream Formulation Issues: Stickiness and White Cast from Titanium Dioxide

Asked by: mind_yabu On: December 04, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a skin cream formula with the following ingredients:

  • Sweet Almond Oil 5%
  • Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) 5%
  • Silicone (Dimethicone) 5%
  • Stearic Acid 4%
  • Titanium Dioxide 250nm Pigment (Non-Treated) 3%

The cream feels sticky and greasy on the skin, and the Titanium Dioxide leaves noticeable white streaks. I would like to know how to fix these issues. Would replacing Sweet Almond Oil with Mineral Oil help reduce the stickiness?

Answer

Formula Adjustment Suggestions

Thank you for sharing your cream formula and the issues you are experiencing. It sounds like you have a nourishing base, but the texture and the white cast from the titanium dioxide are the main concerns.

Let's look at the potential causes and how to adjust the formula:

Stickiness and Greasy Feel

The sticky or greasy feel likely comes from the combination of the oil phase ingredients and the emulsifier/thickener system. Your formula contains 5% Sweet Almond Oil, 5% Isopropyl Myristate (IPM), and 5% Silicone (Dimethicone), along with 4% Stearic Acid.

  • Sweet Almond Oil is a natural oil that can feel richer on the skin compared to lighter emollients.
  • Stearic Acid at 4% contributes significantly to the body and thickness of the cream, which can sometimes result in a heavier or waxier feel.
  • Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) and Dimethicone are included to help reduce greasiness and improve spreadability, but they may not be enough to counteract the feel from the almond oil and stearic acid at these percentages.

Regarding your question about replacing almond oil with mineral oil: Replacing Sweet Almond Oil with a light grade of Mineral Oil (such as Mineral Oil Very Light or Light) might offer a slightly less greasy feel, as mineral oil is a non-polar emollient. However, the 4% Stearic Acid is a significant factor in the overall texture and may still contribute to a feeling of heaviness or tackiness.

To reduce stickiness, you could consider:

  • Trying a lighter emollient like a light Mineral Oil instead of Sweet Almond Oil.
  • Potentially slightly reducing the total oil phase percentage (oil + IPM + Silicone), if emulsion stability allows.
  • Exploring alternative emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers that provide a lighter skin feel (this would be a more significant formula change).

White Streaks from Titanium Dioxide

The white streaks you are experiencing are a common issue with certain types of Titanium Dioxide, especially untreated pigment grades like Titanium Dioxide 250nm Pigment (Non-Treated). These pigments are designed to provide white coverage but can leave a visible white cast on the skin, particularly at higher concentrations like 3%.

To avoid white streaks, you should use a different type of titanium dioxide that is specifically treated or micronized to be more transparent or disperse better in cosmetic formulas. Consider these alternatives:

  • Titanium Dioxide 30nm SilkTouch™ (Polymethylsilsesquioxane Treated): This is a treated, small particle size titanium dioxide designed for a soft feel and better dispersion, which can help reduce the white cast compared to untreated pigments.
  • Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion): This ultra-small particle size titanium dioxide is designed to be transparent on the skin and is pre-dispersed in water, making it easier to incorporate into the water phase of your emulsion and significantly reducing white cast.

Replacing your current titanium dioxide with one of these treated or transparent grades should effectively solve the white streak problem.

In summary, to improve the texture and eliminate white streaks, focus on using a suitable grade of titanium dioxide designed for minimal white cast and consider adjusting your oil phase or emulsifier system if the stickiness persists.