Cream/Serum Formulation Issues: Burning Sensation and Flaking

ถามโดย: kpunatron เมื่อ: September 12, 2016 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have formulated a cream/serum product using the following ingredients:

  • Phenoxyethanol SA
  • Water-Film™ (Galactoarabinan)
  • Bisabolol
  • Shea Butter
  • Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid
  • Repair Activator
  • Ume Extract
  • MOIST24
  • Satin Cream Maker
  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™)
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V

I am experiencing two issues:

  1. A burning sensation around the eye area when applied.
  2. The product flakes off after it dries on the skin.

Could you please advise on the potential causes of these problems and how to resolve them?

คำตอบ

Formulation Issues and Solutions

Based on your description of a burning sensation around the eyes and flaking after the cream dries, and the staff's expert assessment, the issues are likely caused by specific ingredients and their preparation.

Burning Sensation Around the Eyes

The most probable cause of the burning sensation is sensitivity to the preservative Phenoxyethanol SA (equivalent to Optiphen Plus) used in your formula. While it is a common and effective preservative, some individuals, particularly around the sensitive eye area, can react to it. The staff's suggestion to change the preservative is a good approach.

  • Solution: Replace Phenoxyethanol SA with Mild Preserved Eco. This alternative preservative is known for being very gentle and is less likely to cause irritation.

Flaking After Drying

The flaking issue is most likely due to Water-Film™ (Galactoarabinan) not being fully dissolved in your formulation. The description for Water-Film™ explicitly states that it is a powder that requires thorough blending, ideally with a high-speed blender for at least 15 minutes, to dissolve completely in water. If it's not fully dissolved, it can lead to a flaky texture on the skin after application.

  • Solution 1 (If not using a high-speed blender): Omit Water-Film™ from your formula.
  • Solution 2 (If using a high-speed blender): Ensure you blend the water phase containing Water-Film™ for at least 15 minutes at a speed of 1000 RPM or higher to ensure it is fully dissolved before combining with the oil phase.

Other Ingredients

Your formula includes several beneficial ingredients aimed at reducing irritation, strengthening the skin barrier, moisturizing, and providing anti-aging effects:

  • Bisabolol
  • Shea Butter
  • Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid
  • Repair Activator
  • Ume Extract
  • MOIST24
  • Satin Cream Maker (Emulsifier)
  • Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™)
  • SKIN-DEFENSE® V

The Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™) is supplied as a thick cream and should also be mixed into the water phase and blended well to ensure proper dispersion, especially since it contains lipids that need to be incorporated smoothly into the emulsion. However, the primary cause of flaking is attributed to the Water-Film™.

By making the recommended adjustments to the preservative and the handling of Water-Film™, you should be able to resolve both the burning sensation and the flaking issues while retaining the beneficial properties of the other ingredients.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
เครื่องสำอาง
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
เครื่องสำอาง
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
เครื่องสำอาง
Satin Cream Maker™
Satin Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Water-Film™ (Galactoarabinan)
Water-Film™ (Galactoarabinan)
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST24
MOIST24
เครื่องสำอาง
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
เครื่องสำอาง