Creating a Jelly-Like Gel Texture in Cosmetics

Asked by: jn_andy On: June 12, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I create a cosmetic gel that has a firm, jelly-like texture and remains stable without separation? I understand that food jelly bases like those from เบสฟูดส์ are not suitable for cosmetics. What specific cosmetic gelling agents or thickeners should I use, and at what usage rates, to achieve a texture similar to jelly?

Answer

Creating a Jelly-Like Gel Texture in Cosmetics

To create a gel that is firm and holds its shape like jelly in cosmetic formulations, you need to use appropriate gelling agents or thickeners. While achieving a texture exactly like food jelly (which uses ingredients like gelatin or agar) can be different in cosmetics, certain polymers can create stable, cohesive gel structures.

Here are some suitable thickeners and their typical usage rates:

  • Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer): This is a semi-solid gel-forming agent that can create a clear gel texture. It is easy to use as it disperses in water without needing heat or neutralization.

    • Usage Rate: 0.1-2.0%. For a firmer, more jelly-like texture, you would typically use a higher percentage within this range.
  • Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: This thickener also works without heating and can create a stable gel. It is versatile and can handle some oil content.

    • Usage Rate: 0.1-3.0%. Using 1.5% or higher might help achieve a firmer consistency.
  • Carbomer U20 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer): This is a type of acrylate crosspolymer, similar to the one you mentioned. It creates a gel texture but requires neutralization with an alkali (like Triethanolamine) to thicken.

    • Usage Rate: 0.5-3%. Higher percentages will result in a thicker gel. Ensure proper neutralization for optimal gel formation.

To achieve a texture that is as close as possible to a firm, non-separating jelly, you will likely need to experiment with the concentration of these thickeners, using them at the higher end of their recommended usage ranges. Always follow the specific instructions for incorporating each thickener into your formulation.

Please note that cosmetic gels, even when firm, may not have the exact same brittle or cohesive texture as food jellies made with gelling agents like gelatin or agar.