Creating Clear Gel Without Foam Using Aristoflex AVC, HEC, and Carbomer

Question

How can Aristoflex AVC, HEC, and Carbopol be mixed in a gel formula to achieve a clear gel without foam, and are there additional ingredients to make the gel thicker?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Creating Clear Gel with Aristoflex AVC, HEC, and Carbomer

To create a clear gel without foam using Aristoflex AVC, HEC, or Carbomer, the key is the mixing method. Avoid high-speed blending that incorporates air.

Here's how to mix each type:

Aristoflex AVC: This is easily dissolved in water. Simply add it to the water phase and stir or blend gently until dissolved and the gel forms.
HEC (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose): HEC requires heat to dissolve properly and form a gel. Heat the water phase to around 70°C. Slowly sprinkle the HEC powder into the heated water while stirring continuously. Continue stirring until the powder is completely dissolved and the gel texture develops. Alternatively, you can disperse HEC in cold water first, then heat to 70°C with continuous stirring, and continue stirring as it cools.
Carbomer (e.g., Carbomer U21, Carbomer U10, Carbomer 980): Carbomers are typically dispersed in water and then neutralized with an alkali (like Triethanolamine or AMP) to activate the thickening. Blend or stir the Carbomer powder into the water until it is fully dispersed (it might look cloudy). Then, add the neutralizing agent drop by drop while stirring until the gel forms and becomes clear. Some Carbomer types, like Carbomer U21 and U10, can also help reduce foam when used at low concentrations (around 0.1%).

Mixing different types of thickeners like Aristoflex AVC, HEC, and Carbomer in the same formula can be challenging due to their different properties and mixing requirements. It is generally recommended to use one primary gel-forming agent for a stable and clear gel texture.

If you want a thicker, more viscous gel, you can increase the concentration of the chosen thickener within its recommended usage rate. For HEC, selecting a grade with a higher viscosity specification (e.g., 4500mPa.s) will also result in a thicker gel.

Another option for easy gel making is CarboQuick, which is a pre-dispersed Carbomer gel. You simply add it to the water phase and mix, without needing to dissolve powder or adjust pH (it works well in pH 6-7). Using a higher percentage of CarboQuick will increase viscosity.