Custom Serum Formula Review for Sensitive, Dull Skin

Hello! Thank you for sharing the formula you are interested in trying. It's great that you are researching and wanting to create a product tailored to your skin.

Based on your skin description (dull, sun-sensitive, small acne from sun, starting wrinkles, slight clogged pores, moderate milia, slightly dry) and goals (effective moisturizer, bright/healthy skin, reduced sun sensitivity), let's look at the proposed formula:

You mentioned a previous reaction (swelling and redness) to a store-bought cream. As suggested by cosmeceutical7, this reaction might have been related to Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) at a high concentration. The Safe-B3 product from MySkinRecipes is a low-niacin version designed to reduce this type of reaction. However, as a precaution, reducing the concentration of Safe-B3 in your formula from 5% to 3% might be a good idea, as suggested.

Let's review the ingredients in your proposed formula in relation to your skin and goals:

• Moisturizing & Barrier Support: Water, Ceramide Complex (3%), Panthenol ExtraLite™ (3%), LipidSoft™ Lite (5%), MOIST24 (7%), Repair Activator (10%), GlucoBright (4%), Safe-B3 (5% or 3%). These ingredients are excellent for providing hydration, strengthening the skin barrier, and improving skin comfort, which aligns well with your slightly dry skin and goal of effective moisturizing and healthy skin.
• Brightening & Skin Tone: Safe-B3 (5% or 3%), GlucoBright (4%), Sym-White (0.5%). These ingredients can help address dullness and improve skin brightness.
• Soothing & Anti-inflammatory: Panthenol ExtraLite™ (3%), Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid (2%), Bisabolol (1%), Silybum Marianum Extract (2%), Repair Activator (10%). These are beneficial for reducing sensitivity and supporting skin health, which is good given your sun sensitivity and previous reaction.
• Exfoliation & Acne (Salicylic Acid): Salicylic Acid EZ (5%). This is a high concentration of Salicylic Acid, primarily used for exfoliation and treating acne/clogged pores. While you have slight clogged pores and milia, and it can help with these, a 5% concentration might be too strong for skin that is slightly dry and sun-sensitive, especially if your main goals are moisturizing and reducing sensitivity rather than aggressive acne treatment. High concentrations of exfoliants can increase dryness and sun sensitivity.

Considerations and Suggestions:

1. Salicylic Acid Concentration: Given your primary goals (moisturizing, brightness, reduced sensitivity) and skin type (slightly dry, sun-sensitive), the 5% Salicylic Acid might be too high and potentially irritating or drying. If your focus is not strong acne treatment, you might consider reducing the concentration significantly (e.g., to 0.5% - 2%) for milder exfoliation or omitting it entirely and focusing on the other beneficial ingredients for moisturizing and barrier support. If you keep it at 5%, be very cautious and patch test carefully. Also, ensure you use good sun protection daily, as Salicylic Acid increases sun sensitivity.
2. Safe-B3 Concentration: As discussed, reducing Safe-B3 from 5% to 3% is a sensible precaution given your history of reaction, even with the low-niacin version. 3% Niacinamide still offers significant benefits for barrier function and skin tone.
3. Mixing Instructions: The mixing instructions provided are generally correct, but as cosmeceutical7 pointed out, when mixing Phase A, add the Pro Polymer™ after all other Phase A ingredients are mixed together, and then stir until the gel forms.

Overall, the formula contains many excellent ingredients that align with your goals of moisturizing, barrier support, and brightening. The main point to consider is the high concentration of Salicylic Acid and whether it fits your primary objectives and skin sensitivity.

Always perform a patch test before applying any new formulation to your face.