Daytime Gel Formulation for Oily, Dehydrated Skin

Asked by: panuwatsurin On: January 09, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to formulate a daytime gel for oily but dehydrated skin that provides hydration without feeling greasy. I have two proposed formulas:

Formula 1:

  • Silicone Gel (base)
  • Niacinamide
  • Glycerin
  • Green Tea Extract
  • Rosehip oil
  • Vitamin E

Formula 2:

  • Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) (base)
  • Niacinamide
  • Glycerin (20%)
  • Green Tea Extract
  • Rosehip oil
  • Vitamin E (1%)

Could you please advise if these formulas are mixable and suitable for my skin type and intended use? What adjustments or alternative ingredients would you recommend to achieve a non-greasy, hydrating gel for oily, dehydrated skin?

Answer

Gel Formula for Oily but Dehydrated Skin

You are looking for a daytime gel that provides hydration without feeling greasy, suitable for oily but dehydrated skin. You proposed two formulas:

Analysis of Your Proposed Formulas

  • Formula 1: Using Silicone Gel as the base with Niacinamide, Glycerin, Green Tea Extract, Rosehip oil, and Vitamin E.

    • This formula is not mixable as proposed. Silicone Gel is an oil/silicone-based ingredient, while Niacinamide, Glycerin, and Green Tea Extract are water-soluble. Oil and water-based ingredients do not mix without a proper emulsification system.
  • Formula 2: Using Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) as the base with Niacinamide, Glycerin, Green Tea Extract, Rosehip oil, and Vitamin E.

    • This formula is mixable because Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) is a water-based gel. However, the proposed concentrations of Glycerin (20%) and Vitamin E (1%) are high and likely to result in a sticky or greasy feel on oily skin. Rosehip oil, being oil-soluble, could also contribute to this feeling.

Recommendations for Oily but Dehydrated Skin

For oily but dehydrated skin, it is best to use a water-based gel focusing on ingredients that control oil while providing hydration without heaviness. Based on your goal and expert advice, Formula 2 is a better starting point, but adjustments to the active ingredients and their concentrations are recommended.

Ingredients that are particularly beneficial for balancing oily and dehydrated skin include:

  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): Helps reduce oiliness, minimize pores, improve skin barrier function, and provide hydration.
  • Zinc PCA: Effective in reducing skin oiliness and can help with acne-related concerns.
  • L-Carnitine: Aids in balancing moisture and reducing sebum production.
  • Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): Reduces inflammation and helps control skin oiliness.
  • AcneBee Extra: Reduces and controls facial oiliness.

Using a combination of these water-soluble actives in a water-based gel like Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) will provide hydration and oil control without a greasy feel.

Suggested Mixing Method for Aloe Vera Gel Base

To create a gel using the Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) base and water-soluble active ingredients:

  1. Measure out the desired amount of Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy).
  2. Add your chosen water-soluble active ingredients (such as Safe-B3, Zinc PCA, L-Carnitine, Licorice Extract, Glycerin at a reduced concentration, Green Tea Extract) to the gel base at room temperature.
  3. Stir the mixture thoroughly for several minutes until all powdered ingredients are fully dissolved and the mixture is homogeneous. If adding liquid actives, stir until well combined.
  4. Ensure the final mixture is uniform before packaging.

For a non-greasy finish suitable for oily skin, it is generally advisable to minimize or avoid oil-soluble ingredients like Rosehip oil and Vitamin E in a water-based gel unless a suitable emulsifier is used to properly incorporate them without affecting the texture.