Emulsifier for Acidic/Electrolyte Liquid Gel with Oils
Question
I am formulating a liquid gel product containing approximately 20% oil phase (including LipidSoft Dry II, Natural Bisabolol, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%), and Oleanolic acid), BHA (Complex Salicylic Acid), AHA (Lactic Acid), and various electrolytes (such as Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, and NaturePreserve). When I used Satin Cream Maker, the texture became a thick cream, but I need a liquid gel consistency.
Which emulsifier is suitable for this formula that is tolerant to acids and electrolytes and can help achieve a liquid gel texture?
Answer
Emulsifier Recommendation for BHA/AHA Gel Formula
Based on your formula containing BHA (Complex Salicylic Acid), Lactic Acid (AHA), a significant oil phase (including LipidSoft Dry II, Natural Bisabolol, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%), and Oleanolic acid), as well as various electrolytes (such as Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, and NaturePreserve), and your goal of achieving a liquid gel texture rather than a thick cream like the one you experienced with Satin Cream Maker, the recommended emulsifier is Butter Cream Maker.
Butter Cream Maker is suggested at a concentration of 3%. This emulsifier is suitable for your complex formula because it offers high resistance to both electrolytes and acids. Importantly, it allows for control over the texture, enabling a liquid gel consistency without requiring the addition of fatty alcohols like Cetearyl Alcohol, which would result in a thicker, butter-like texture.
This approach should help you achieve the desired liquid gel texture while maintaining the stability of your formula with its diverse range of active ingredients.
Related Products Mentioned
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Lactic Acid (AHA) 88%
Disodium EDTA
Satin Cream Maker™
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Butter Cream Maker™
Phospholipid
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Pure-Adenosine™
LipidSoft™ Dry II (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)
Isopentyldiol
Oat Avenanthramides (100ppm Solution)