Emulsifier for Silicone Serum with Vitamin C
Question
How to select a suitable emulsifier for a serum formulation containing 15% silicone, 3% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, and 0.5% MHS White? Can Silisove PEG-10 Dimethicone be used, and if not, what type of Water-in-Silicone emulsifier is recommended?
Answer
Emulsifier Selection for Silicone Serum Formulation
For a serum containing 15% silicone and water-soluble ingredients like 3% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and 0.5% MHS White (whitening ingredients are generally water-soluble), your formula is likely a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) or Silicone-in-Water (Si/W) type. However, given the relatively high silicone content (15%), it is highly probable that it is intended to be a Water-in-Silicone formulation.
The Silisove PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless you mentioned, if it is a water-soluble silicone such as PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, cannot function as an emulsifier to bridge the water and silicone phases in a Water-in-Silicone formula. Water-soluble silicones are suitable for use in water-based formulations to provide a smooth feel.
To create a stable Water-in-Silicone serum with a high silicone content, you need to use a specific type of Water-in-Silicone Emulsifier. This type of emulsifier helps to disperse the water phase (containing dissolved Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and MHS White) stably within the silicone continuous phase.
An example of a suitable Water-in-Silicone Emulsifier is PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, which is specifically designed to emulsify water into silicone or oil. The typical method is to mix this emulsifier into the silicone phase and then gradually add the water phase while stirring or homogenizing until a stable emulsion is formed.
Therefore, if the Silisove PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless you have is a water-soluble silicone, it is not suitable for this formulation. You should use a Water-in-Silicone Emulsifier instead.
Regarding Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C Ethyl Ether), it is a highly stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative. It should be incorporated into the water phase of your formulation, ensuring the pH of the water phase is within the recommended range (3.5-6.0).
Information on MHS White was not clearly identified during the search, but if it is a water-soluble ingredient, it would also be included in the water phase along with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
In Summary:
- If Silisove PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless is a water-soluble silicone, it is not suitable as an emulsifier for a Water-in-Silicone serum.
- You should use a Water-in-Silicone Emulsifier, such as PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble and should be in the water phase.
