Evaluating a Water-Based Serum Formulation for Sensitive, Acne-Prone Skin

Question

I have sensitive, acne-prone skin with a damaged barrier and dehydration (oily but dry after washing). I am developing a water-based, non-oily serum formulation with the following key ingredients and percentages:

Panthenol (Vitamin B5) 5%
N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (NAG) 4%
Beta-Sitosterol (SKIN-DEFENSE)
Saccharide Isomerate
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Allantoin
Vitamin B12
Resveratrol
Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A)
Bisabolol
Hi-Quercetin® 5%

Could you please evaluate this formulation? Specifically, is it well-suited for my skin type and concerns (sensitive, acne-prone, damaged barrier, dehydration)? Will the ingredients and percentages contribute to a non-oily texture as intended? Are there any potential considerations or suggestions?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

This formulation appears well-designed to address the concerns of sensitive, acne-prone skin with a damaged barrier and lack of NMF, while aiming for a water-based, non-oily texture.

You have included several excellent ingredients known for:

Skin Barrier Repair & Hydration: Panthenol (Vitamin B5), N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine, Beta-Sitosterol (SKIN-DEFENSE), Saccharide Isomerate, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Centella Asiatica Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin. These ingredients work synergistically to strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration, and replenish NMF components.
Soothing & Anti-inflammatory: Panthenol, Vitamin B12, Resveratrol, Beta-Sitosterol, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A), Bisabolol, Allantoin. These help calm irritation, reduce redness, and soothe inflamed acne.
Mild Exfoliation & Acne Marks: N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine provides gentle exfoliation and can help improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of acne marks. Hi-Quercetin® may also assist with marks and provide antioxidant benefits.

The percentages used are generally within effective ranges, and while some are on the higher side (e.g., Vitamin B5 5%, Hi-Quercetin 5%, NAG 4%), these are typically well-tolerated ingredients, especially when combined with so many soothing agents.

Regarding your concern about oiliness, the ingredients you've chosen are primarily water-soluble or used at levels that should not contribute significantly to an oily feel, making them suitable for a water-based formula.

Considerations:

The formula focuses strongly on reducing inflammation and supporting skin health, which is excellent for sensitive, acne-prone skin. It doesn't contain a strong anti-bacterial acne agent, which is likely a good choice to avoid further irritation on sensitive skin.
The final texture and feel will also depend on the base formulation (emulsifiers, thickeners, etc.) that you use. Ensure the base is also suitable for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
Given the number of active ingredients and sensitive skin, always recommend patch testing before full application.

Overall, this is a thoughtful formulation with a strong focus on repairing the skin barrier and calming inflammation, which are key steps in managing sensitive, acne-prone skin.